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Snow Bench (McHenry's Peak)

M3 Steep Snow, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Ernie Kuncl and John Deeming, 1965
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > McHenry's Peak
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Description

A fun long route with a great setting. The climbing is predominantly on snow with a few mixed pitches to gain the ramp. Many possible variations exist as well as the possibility of combining this route with others such as the West Gully of Black Lake.

Location

Start in the middle of the concave east face of McHenry's. Climb up a few pitches to gain an left leaning ramp, then climb this to the summit ridge.

Protection

A light mixed rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric leading our third pitch of the route with the help of some frozen turf. Taken 3/5/06.
[Hide Photo] Eric leading our third pitch of the route with the help of some frozen turf. Taken 3/5/06.
A mixed pitch leading up to the namesake snow bench.  This pitch is not usually part of the route and lies to the right of the route Right Gully, but it looked fun, so we gave it a go. Taken on 3/4/06.
[Hide Photo] A mixed pitch leading up to the namesake snow bench. This pitch is not usually part of the route and lies to the right of the route Right Gully, but it looked fun, so we gave it a go. Taken on 3/4…
Eric dodging the cornice as he tops out onto the summit ridge.  Taken 3/5/06.
[Hide Photo] Eric dodging the cornice as he tops out onto the summit ridge. Taken 3/5/06.
Eric at our bivi two pitches up the Snow Bench.  The route did not really need to be done in two days, be we enjoyed the opportunity to spend a night in such a great place. Taken 3/5/06.
[Hide Photo] Eric at our bivi two pitches up the Snow Bench. The route did not really need to be done in two days, be we enjoyed the opportunity to spend a night in such a great place. Taken 3/5/06.
The east face of McHenry's Peak from the top of the West Gully of Black Lake. The Snow Bench is the left leaning ramp of snow right above Eric's head.  Taken on 3/4/06.
[Hide Photo] The east face of McHenry's Peak from the top of the West Gully of Black Lake. The Snow Bench is the left leaning ramp of snow right above Eric's head. Taken on 3/4/06.
The first view of McHenry's Peak from the approach down Glacier Gorge. Taken on 3/4/06.
[Hide Photo] The first view of McHenry's Peak from the approach down Glacier Gorge. Taken on 3/4/06.