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Routes in (e) Western Ship - River Face

Caffeine Free S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caffiene Free Finish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Yuk S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Nacho Libre S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phone Call From Satan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Purple Headed Warrior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slit Your Wrist S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Solar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time's Up S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,395 total · 30/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006 with updates
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

253 Opinions

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Fun and popular warm up. Steep start leads to fun slab climbing above. The rock gets really good just below the anchor, too bad it's not that way the whole pitch.

A fun option is to link this with the last two pitches of Solar into one long lead.


Right of Caffeine Free, left of Purple Headed Warrior.




Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
On Alan and Byron's comments, there are two ways to climb as you get into the slabby bits. On the left there is a flake that is hollow, would be easier hands. On the right there is real slab with less obvious/positive hands. If you take the right side rock is solid to the anchors. Apr 17, 2017
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
Going to respectfully disagree with Byron a little bit, there are definitely some loose holds, like the left leaning sidepull towards the 6th bolt or so. Most of the stuff towards the top is hollow, but feels mostly ok.

Still a great break from the usual Smith style climbing though, and definitely worth doing. Mar 26, 2017
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
After hundreds of ascents, there is no longer any loose rock on this route that I could find. I believe that getting to the first bolt is currently the crux - I fell off when I misjudged my reach for the obvious jug, though the landing was fine with an attentive spotter. Apr 10, 2016
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
My belayer could not hear me yell take when I was at anchors. I didn't hear him respond so I weighted the rope a bit. I ended up sliding back a good 15' which scared the crap out of me.

Make sure to yell extra loud at anchors because you will be out of sight of your belayer. Dec 13, 2015
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I really liked this climb. It's a bit reachy, but I found that intermediate moves could be made to compensate no problem. Steep moves to huge huecos where in one case at least there was a natural "handle bar" to grab. Be sure to jump on this one. Jul 13, 2010
Gets pretty loose towards the top. If you are new to 5.9 it will seem run out up there as well. Oct 7, 2007
This first part of this route is steep climbing between giant huecos, and involves some reachy moves. Shorter people seem to have a harder time during the first half of the climb than others, but work your feet up and you will be fine-- the holds are huge and very positive (once you get to them). When you hit the red band of rock below the anchor pay attention-- there are a couple of loose blocks lurking-- make sure you avoid them. Mar 8, 2006

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