Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.8 from 156
FA: Galen Rowell, Chris Jones, Fred Beckey - October 1970
> High Sierra
> 12 - Kearsarge…
> Charlotte Dome
A route on solid rock in a magnificent position.
P1 5.4 Climb up a groove, traverse right to a little wall with large knobs, up this to a large ledge; spike belay belay on the right.
P2 5.6 On the righthand edge of the ledge is a corner formed by a detached block, climb this, then up a crack, traverse right around an overlap, climb a crack and switch right into another crack to reach a small ledge in an alcove. Nut belay.
P3 5.6 Climb the wall on the left of the alcove, traverse right along an easy ledge and gain a ramp of different rock, head right up this for 30ft, then climb a crack (small wire) step left and climb a slab to a ledge. Nut belay.
P4 5.6 Climb a crack, then easily right to a chimney crack, up this to a ledge on the right. Climb a beautiful left-facing corner (50 Classics shows Allen Steck on this) to a thinner crack, up this then step right to a small ledge and nut belay below the Slot Pitch.
P5 5.8 Climb The Slot, good holds on the face to the right to a small ledge running across the face. Belay at a crack on the right with nuts. A magnificent pitch.
P6 5.7 Up the crack, with an awkward move right to gain a ledge below a steep wall. Nut belay on the right.
P7 5.7 From the righthand end of the ledge go over 2 small pinnacles and climb up a steep right facing corner to a semi-hanging belay on nuts. A great pitch.
P8 5.7+ A long intricate pitch. Climb the crack that the corner has become until it peters out, ahead looks hopeless, but step left into another crack, nut, head up and left, aiming for a small pocket in the slab above, this pocket takes a 2.5 Friend. Make a delicate step left to a crack, good pro. Step left up a rib to a ledge (wires in diagonal crack on the right), climb a steep step to a crack (TCU), head up this to a ledge, traverse right to a small spike and nut belay.
P9 5.6 The Furrow Pitch. The face above is deeply furrowed with large holds, head up this, aiming for bushes, good pro to start. Soon the protection becomes sparse, head rightwards to a nook overlooking the recess high on the Dome. Thread belay. An exposed pitch.
P10 5.6 The Dick Long Pitch (see 50 Classics). Traverse left over bushes to a steep flake crack, up this in a magnificent position to a huge ledge with a dead tree. Thread (and possible bivi!!)
P11 5.6 Climb the orange face behind the belay directly to another ledge. Thread. A brilliant finish.
P12 Easy climbing leads to the summit ridge.
Start at a tree beneath a recess to the left of the buttress which holds the climb.
Descend the north ridge to its lowest point and scramble down.
Here is my best estimate of the route we followed. Photo taken from campsite along Bubs Creek
Dawn over Mount Brewer, North Guard, & Mount Francis Farquhar seen from Charlotte Dome.
Approaching the South Face of Charlotte Dome.
moon over Charlotte Dome
Melody pauses high above Bubbs Creek.
Topo of the route we took in August 1992.
Leading the Slot, 9-11-08. Photo by René Renteria.
Looking up at the maze of features on the south face of Charlotte Dome.
View of Charlotte Dome.
My wife near the top of Charlotte Dome
Finishing up the first 5.8 pitch.
last stroll to the unusual summit block