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Bad Moon Rising
5.11a,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 150
votes
FA: Jerry Messinger 1989
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (q) Mesa Verde Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Exciting route!
Start out with some wicked crimping down low (short people will probably hate this). Follow bolts up the small knobs on the face to the roof and crank through it to the anchor.
Location
Right of the arete of
Moons of Pluto. Look for the roof at the top of the pitch.
Protection
draws
Bend, OR
Tucson
But I did the move, lunged to the big jug over the lip, and all was well. I was a bit spooked... but I still liked it. If anyone reading this ever messed up that roof move, I'd be curious if that was a clean fall. Post up... Jul 5, 2013
Bend, OR
Onsight I'd agree the roof is the crux, because you can't *help* but look at the start before you go. But knowing what to do helps a bunch at the ceiling, nothing will make those two awful feet you start on not suck. Jul 19, 2015
OR
The bolting is fine. If you fell clipping the chains, ok, having the bolt below the roof is not ideal but those are pretty massive holds once you pull around the lip. Glad I got on this while I was back there, even though I didn't want to push my finger recovery too fast! I liked it more than Moons and Zonkers! If you climb the grade (or don't), tie in and get after it! Jun 22, 2016
Victoria, BC
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
Bend, OR