PRINT: Rock Climb Cosmos, Smith Rock

Cosmos

5.10a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 392 votes
FA: Pajunas, Sprecher, Rall, 89'
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Location

Between Trezlar and Screaming Yellow Zonkers

Description

Knob fest.

Nubbins galore pepper this pleasant face.

Crux comes at the top.

Makes a good start to Trezlar.

Protection

7 draws + 2 for the anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading up Cosmos, lots of drag if you don't sling the 3rd bolt

Kathryn

2/3 of the way

Me on Cosmos with Moons of Pluto in the background

Leading Cosmos

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10a

A great start to Trezlar or a fun climb by itself. Classic knob pulling at a friendly grade. May 13, 2007

jrdezso
portland

Sling up the 3rd bolt if you want to kill the drag. Take a rest on the traverse. Bolt 6 is the crux. Clip and move. Super fun climb. Mar 23, 2011

pinecone

We climbed Cosmos a few weeks back. The route was balancy and fun. However, the anchor bolts were both LOOSE! They worked for a static repel, but I would not recommend them for TR (or more repels). I reported it to the Smith Rock staff and hopefully they will be replaced soon. May 10, 2015

Carl Sampurna
Boulder, CO

The anchor bolts aren't noticeably loose now.

Beta tip - getting to the third bolt is easier if you move right before moving up, though the chalk currently indicates more people move up first and then traverse right. Jul 13, 2017

Matthew Steiner
Bend, OR

Just top roped and took some laps with buddies on this today, super fun climb. love the knobs. Great for building upper body, tendons in the fingers, and critical and creative foot placement. Had to smear my right foot before the crux haha, lots of fun today! Highly recommend Mesa Verdes Wall. I know I'll be back.. Jul 9, 2018

Dom R
Estes Park, CO

Cool knobs, was reminiscent more of granite feldspar knob climbs I’ve done than anything else at Smith, trust your feet and you’ll never tire your arms out. Anchor seemed fine. Nov 10, 2018

Michal Orczyk
Portland, OR

Fun route, but there are still numerous loose bolts. I'm not talking about spinning hangers, I mean some of the bolts themselves are wiggling inside the rock. If this route is at or near your limit, I would not recommend it -- the some of the bolts may or may not hold a big fall. The first bolt, for example, is loose and wiggles side to side (it's slight, but there should not be ANY movement whatsoever). Oct 19, 2019

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

Freshly rebolted as of yesterday. (including the anchor) Should be good to go for a good long while now. If you find more bad hardware, please report it here: docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1… Oct 8, 2020

Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA

5.10a/b

Felt a little stiff/ awkward, liked the route to the right much better. Might a just been the numb fingys though. Apr 21, 2021

Nacho Delgado Ferreiro
A Coruña, ES

My introduction to Smith Rock's knobs Jul 21, 2022

Fletch PDX
Portland, OR

5.10b

Awkward and hard to Onsight compared to Screaming Yellow Zonkers Jun 7, 2023

Jeff Scheuerell

Is a sling still needed for the 3rd bolt or was this situation fixed with better bolt placements? Grateful for the upgrade for sure. Jun 8, 2023

Tyler Swanson
Bend, OR

New anchor hardware was added to this route this afternoon. It's set up to make for an easy top rope and easy clip-and-lower. Enjoy! And can confirm that the rope runs nice and easily with normal quickdraws Oct 13, 2024