[Hide Comment] The bolts have all been replaced and positions improved. They are bomber now and the route is perfectly protected. Not too many bolts, not too few bolts. Just right.....

As good as 5.10 gets at Smith. Good, fun knob pulling! A 60m just makes the belay ledge, so watch your ends. May 13, 2007

[Hide Comment] Did this climb Moons of Pluto and Bad Moon Rising. These were my introduction to the knobs and I love them. Three best pitches I have done at Smith in my three days of climbing there. Jun 15, 2008

[Hide Comment] Excellent line! Aug 27, 2009

[Hide Comment] I felt that no one move on this was any harder than the hardest moves on Cosmos, it's just really sustained. And I mean that in the sense that all the moves are about the same 10b level of difficulty, not that there aren't rest stances. There are actually a few places where you climb past pockets, and can stuff your feet into those pockets and get really comfy no-hands rests.

Wonderfully long, sustained, great. Do it! Aug 1, 2011

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb. I think its the best archetypal climb of the grade for Smith Rock. The little nubbins you balance up characterize so much of what makes Smith sweet. Oct 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] Perfect smith nubby 5.10. Nubs and more nubs. Well bolted, lots of fun. The bolts are newer and totally fine. I don't remember it wandering very much, except at the top where you move right to the anchors. Oct 9, 2013

[Hide Comment] did this on TR a few days ago and loved the blank section towards the top. Pinching and pulling on knobs is so much fun. Jul 16, 2014

[Hide Comment] The start looked like it needed a clip stick more than most routes at smith. Maybe it's easier than it looks - don't know, didn't climb. Sep 5, 2016

[Hide Comment] The start for this and Moons of Pluto is much easier than it looks. If you're a 5.10 climber, you'll be fine--and you'd need an enormous stick clip to get the bolt anyway. But yeah, don't fall before the first bolt. It'd be catastrophic. Nov 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] went back for the lead. Still incredible, but I have to reiterate how well bolted this thing is. Perfect clipping positions and spacing!

must do along with Moons of Pluto Apr 14, 2017

[Hide Comment] 6/3/2017 - There was a bolt hanging from the first bolt of the route. It appears the bolt protecting the crux came out. Jun 4, 2017

[Hide Comment] Crux bolt missing as of 6/17. Makes the crux section extra heady! Jun 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] Missing bolt has been replaced. A big thank you to the anonymous rebolter! Jun 25, 2017

[Hide Comment] Tremendous route!

The first bolt is high, but fear not: You're just a high-foot away using bomber jugs.

Also, stay left at the beginning to experience some great side-pulls to the start of the nub staircase.

This route is similar to Cosmos to the left, but more consistent and sustained. It's quite long! Oct 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route!
Maybe it was just because it was one of my first Smith routes after 6mo, but I thought the moves to the second bolt were a little tricky and was left about 6" short despite being 6'2," and ended up down climbing and stick-clipping the second bolt. My partner agreed, and was glad to have the draw pre-hung on his lead which made the clip reachable.

After that, fun and engaging climbing on a variety of little chicken-heads, nubbins, pinches, crimps, side pulls, and a couple jugs. It really has a lot! The technical crux comes around the 7th bolt with a thoughtful sequence on less secure holds and less textured rock. There is a secondary, redpoint crux not too much further which keeps you on your toes to the anchor. Literally. Stretch your calves before you jump on this thing!

Easy to set a directional off the Moons of Pluto anchors and down route to TR that route, also, which is very much worth doing. Apr 8, 2021

[Hide Comment] Better and less awkward than cosmos to the left. Felt about the same difficulty-wise Apr 21, 2021