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Moons of Pluto

5.10d, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 515 votes
FA: Frank Cornelius 1984
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Great arete and nubbin adventure. Knobs galore and pockets where they have ripped off all the way up to and interesting crux below the anchor.
NOTE: This route no longer shares same 1st bolt with Screaming Yellow Zonkers

Location

The stunning Arete between Screaming Yellow Zonkers and Bad Moon Rising.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moons of Pluto
[Hide Photo] Moons of Pluto
Max on Moons of Pluto (5.10d)
[Hide Photo] Max on Moons of Pluto (5.10d)
Mel on Moons of Pluto!
[Hide Photo] Mel on Moons of Pluto!
Sean Vallefuoco nubbin' surfin' the Moons of Pluto - July 2020
[Hide Photo] Sean Vallefuoco nubbin' surfin' the Moons of Pluto - July 2020
Me on MOP. Great line!
[Hide Photo] Me on MOP. Great line!
Below the crux on moons of pluto
[Hide Photo] Below the crux on moons of pluto
topping out on Moons of Pluto
[Hide Photo] topping out on Moons of Pluto
a stellar route
[Hide Photo] a stellar route
Sarah following up MoP just as the sun is coming around the corner.
[Hide Photo] Sarah following up MoP just as the sun is coming around the corner.
Rapping off
[Hide Photo] Rapping off
Moons of Pluto
[Hide Photo] Moons of Pluto
Wolf about to do a sweet move starting things off
[Hide Photo] Wolf about to do a sweet move starting things off

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] there has been some bolt replacement at Mesa Verde and Moons no longer shares the same first bolt with Zonkers. Jun 23, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] A beautiful line with great climbing on knobs, pockets and the arete. Jun 15, 2008
[Hide Comment] We pulled one of the anchor bolts from this climb today, thinking "if it's not to be trusted, than it shouldn't even be here to tempt someone." Actually, it screwed right out. You can use the anchors to the left, for Screaming Yellow Zonkers mountainproject.com/v/screa… to rappel. Apr 16, 2012
[Hide Comment] I'll never forget this one, spicy and delicate on a gorgeous arete. Steep and with clean falls, a good place to push yourself climbing on small features Sep 28, 2012
Richard Dana
Eugene, OR
 
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite sport climbs anywhere. Incredibly aesthetic. Jun 30, 2013
[Hide Comment] Brilliant Jul 5, 2013
Nick Ehman
Bloomington, IN
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Incredible Sep 9, 2013
T Banch
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Nick's description is spot on. I took a pretty good whip towards the top and it was totally safe. One of my favorite climbs at Smith so far. Jun 12, 2015
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Stellar, or should I say interstellar, route! Precarious knob climbing the whole way up! Highly recommend it! Jul 28, 2017
PeterW Whitmore
Dryden, NY
[Hide Comment] This climb is amazing. I didn't find any individual hard move, but pretty sustained.

The flake next to the second bolt flexes a lot. If that peeled off it could cause a lot of damage. Oct 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] Favorite nubbins at Smith Rock. Wait for a full moon and sunset and save your energy for the top. Clean and sustained fun! Jun 27, 2020
Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] oof, what a classic... knobs, pockets and heel hooks galore. Never desperate, not many relaxing moments either. Apr 21, 2021
Peter J
Bishop
 
[Hide Comment] An excellent climb. One of my favorites in the park. Sep 22, 2021
Ting Xiao
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is my favorite moderate at Smith. Personally I think other routes at Smith with lower grades like Wedding Day (5.10b) and Barbecue the Pope (5.10b/c) are more sustained and more difficult, but maybe the exposure and tricky crux at the top give it the 5.10d grade. Point is--don't let the "d" keep you from trying it! You can also easily set a TR from the anchors of SYZ. Oct 13, 2022
Cyrus McDowell
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] If 5.10 isn't a moderate, what is? Don't be afraid to be a moderate climber. Aug 5, 2023
Esther P
Mostly CA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Absolutely incredible line with very thoughtful sequences.

We couldn't reach the first bolt of Moons with our stick clip, but could reach the first bolt of Zonkers, so clipped that, traversed over to clip Moons, then back-cleaned the first bolt on Zonkers. The start isn't as hard as the rest of the climb, but a fall would be from very high as the ground slopes down to the right. May 27, 2024
Aaron Anderson
Yakima, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The holds to get to the 1st bolt are great in my opinion and I placed a
n extended alpine draw to reduce drag. Super fun route! Oct 23, 2024