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Dean Problem - Arete

V2, Boulder, 16 ft (5 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 193 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Boulders - Litt… > Cabbage Patch > Fat Albert Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

Arete on southwest corner of the large drilled boulder. Use the drill holes on the face of the boulder as single finger holds, along with the drill holes on the arete. Be prepared for some lie-backs .

Location

Shimmy down the tree on the northeast side to get down.

Protection

pad, spotter

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice arete!
[Hide Photo] Nice arete!
Das craigers at it again
[Hide Photo] Das craigers at it again
Dean's Arete
[Hide Photo] Dean's Arete
Really fun mini-highball problem. Not technically hard but gets the blood pumping :)
[Hide Photo] Really fun mini-highball problem. Not technically hard but gets the blood pumping :)
Getting ready for that last move.
[Hide Photo] Getting ready for that last move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Craig Childre
Lubbock, TX
  V2
[Hide Comment] Guide I saw had this problem at V2, I doubt it would be considered a V3 by too many consistent at the grade. At least the other V3's I attempted during my visit felt substantially stiffer than this one. Sep 8, 2006
lewisslc
Salt Lake City, Ut
V2
[Hide Comment] Been noticing a lot of grade descrepencies between mountain project & guide book...this problem, although fun and a bit highball, in the book is v2, not v3...i tend to agree with the consensus grade v2...grade rating is seemingly becoming to contrived as time goes on...climb it and have fun... be safe y'all. Sep 19, 2011
BJB
Salt Lake City, UT
  V3
[Hide Comment] For what its worth, I used all of the drilled holes with my left hand and the arete only for the right hand, b/c I thought that's what the route description was saying. getting both hands on the arete made it a lot easier. Fun climb though, especially using the drilled holes. Apr 17, 2012
J Saarela
Park City
[Hide Comment] IMO if you only use the arete for the last move to the lip I'd call it v3-4. Nov 22, 2017
Craig Moody
Herriman, UT
[Hide Comment] Utah Bouldering calls this one "Arete Left V2".
Tony Calderone's Wasatch Bouldering calls this one "Left Chipped Arete V2"
LCC Bouldering app mentions the left as a harder variant to "Chipped Arete" Oct 11, 2022
Tyler Madani
Los Angeles
 
[Hide Comment] Who knew chipped routes could be so fun Jun 30, 2023