Mountain Project Logo

Routes in AMC Boulder

Delayed Flight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Look Sharp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mean Streak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mickey Mantle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mickey Mantle alt. Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reunion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rurpture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Varicose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: AMC Club members
Page Views: 1,838 total, 13/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Mar 5, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


54 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Wide low angle crack on the left side of the AMC boulder.

Location

Large crack, second route to the right

Protection

Large cams from a #5 or #6 depending on how low you want to place your first piece of gear with the crack being widest at the bottom. #4 Camalot helps a little higher up,#3, #2 and a few smaller pieces as the crack pinches out near the top.

Photos

Brian Carver
Boulder, Co
Brian Carver   Boulder, Co
This route is not PG13 if you own large cams (5 or 6) or if from the starting pedestal you find the constriction to place a bomber #2 c4. If you have a competent belayer the #2 will only protect you from the ground for a short move or two until you reach better feet. From here you can place a tipped #4 and scoot it up as you gain easy climbing. I searched hard on lead and on my way down as well, the lowest spot i could fit the #4 was 20 feet of the deck.

Only a good begginning lead for the large cam owner. Nov 25, 2016
TKlein
Tempe, AZ
  5.6 PG13
TKlein   Tempe, AZ
  5.6 PG13
Placed a #4 comfortably about 12 feet off the deck. Super fun route and great for the beginning trad lead climber. Jan 25, 2016
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
  5.6 PG13
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
  5.6 PG13
Super fun warm up. A little run out from the ground to the first placement of gear, but thats only because the largest piece of gear I had was a #3. Nov 7, 2015
The Cave  
 
Charlie C, I just returned from a climbing trip in the area. We had a 3, 4, 7, 9 and 12 year old in our party. It can be top roped and was the only really easy route we could find that all the kids could get on. My 4 year old managed about 2/3rds of the route. Its a really fun climb, i enjoyed hiking it.
Have fun out there!!

Ps.
There are a great concentration of climbs in the lower grades in the mine area of Queen Creek canyon. We had a lot of luck there. Feb 19, 2015
I have to young kids and am looking for climbs for them. Could this one be top roped? Or would there be to much rope drag? thanks Jan 29, 2015
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.7 PG13
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.7 PG13
That was a fun route. Didn't feel sketchy at all. A #5 at the bottom is great, but it's not required if you are OK with standing up in the flake to place a #4 up high.

Video of Climbing Varicose. Jan 20, 2014
Michele Evans
  5.7
Michele Evans  
  5.7
The bottom felt more like 5.7, slightly awkward, loved placing a #5, & a 4. Fun route & a good way to get a TR up. Oct 16, 2013
MacM
Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
MacM   Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
  5.6
I think this is actually one of the best routes I've done at PP. I did take the above comments under consideration and brought along the #6 for the bottom crux, which worked out really well. Feb 25, 2013
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.6
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.6
I agree with Eric, a bigger cam would'be been nice in the wide part. I was able to get a #4 in poorly semi early and walked it up into nicer territory, but a fall before the #4 was placed well would be painful. Apr 24, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
One of the better easy routes at Pinnacle. Not worth fiddling with big gear if you are comfortable at the grade. Also fun to move left and finish using the final bolt of Reunion. Jan 10, 2010
ZEric
Surprise, AZ
ZEric   Surprise, AZ
fun climb. a #5 cam would have been helpful, the largest part of the crack wouldn't take a #4 and it ended up more run out than I would have liked. Dec 7, 2008