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The Y Crack
5.7,
Trad, TR,
Avg: 2.8 from 116
votes
FA: unknown
California
> San Diego County
> N San Diego County
> Dixon Lake
> Y Crack Area
Description
Who would have guessed that this is the namesake route for this area. Easily identified on the approach, this great climb involves a thin crack start to a crux move about a third of the way up, where an arching crack meets on the left. Liebacking the OW portion until the Y choice is made, adds to the dimension of moves on this route. Near the top, either L/R finish goes the same, but going right adds a bit of exposure. Highly Recomended
Protection
Standard rack, with a large cam option. Two bolts for the anchor/TR
[Hide Photo] The Y-Crack, basic lieback to start and two variants at the top with the right variant being a bit more challenging because of the balancey moves. 2 Bolts at top easily reached by a short hike left…
[Hide Photo] Topping out right side on 3rd lap. Great crack to work different sizes and techniques.
[Hide Comment] A definite sandbag at 5.7. I'm a descent crack climber and I struggled with it. Couple of #2,3,4 and a 5 to walk up. Very dirty offwidth like some Vedawoo crack.
Oct 13, 2012
[Hide Comment] I used to solo this all the time, and have led it on like a single #10 hex placed in the middle. A great climb. I don't remember which now, but one of the exits is 5.8ish and there is a moment at the fork requiring a mantelish slightly insecure move so I wouldn't solo this the first time..the landing would lead to broken bones if you were lucky, or worse.
While some may say this is a sandbag, I've done 5.7s on Tahquitz with OW sections that were waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy harder than this, my friends...not even close. This would be 5.5 up there, so there's that.
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, great spot for my first time climbing in SoCal.
I noticed there's a cam stuffed in the right exit of the crack. Did my best to yank it out, but I'm not nimble enough; plenty others seemed to have tried. Maybe some bent needle noses could pop it out? Otherwise, a little bit of off-width paired with some great jams. Freakin loved it.
Dec 1, 2019
[Hide Comment] The right side variation is considerably easier considering that the left crack is wide, curved and rather awkward. Right side is short, almost parallel and nearly vertical.
Sep 8, 2021
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Colorado Springs, CO
PG, Utah
Encinitas, CA
Bellingham, WA
San Diego, CA
While some may say this is a sandbag, I've done 5.7s on Tahquitz with OW sections that were waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy harder than this, my friends...not even close. This would be 5.5 up there, so there's that.
A great climb and an area classic. Jun 3, 2018
Rohnert Park
I noticed there's a cam stuffed in the right exit of the crack. Did my best to yank it out, but I'm not nimble enough; plenty others seemed to have tried. Maybe some bent needle noses could pop it out? Otherwise, a little bit of off-width paired with some great jams. Freakin loved it. Dec 1, 2019
Victoria, BC