Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 3,263 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A great climb. According to Bloom, this is one of the best unnamed climbs in the creek.
Start in the thin corner and power up on fingers to a good jam up and left in a pod of the neighboring crack, perhaps 8 meters. then climb thin hands for about 8 more meters to good stems and opposition moves for rest. Pass another move or two to reach better jams and a widening crack to go to the anchors.

Location

This climb is in a large right facing corner between Fletcher and Whale's Back on the Fin. A crack left of the start at the base but just out of reach comes closer as you go up. Toward the top, a thin crack appears to the right of the corner.

Protection

A few thin cams at the bottom, .5 to .75, then a lot of 1.5-2" gear before a few each of 2.5 and 3".

Photos

Is this the one right of Nagasaki and left of Double Trouble?
If so, I thought it was excellent. Hong bolt on top-- maybe it used to have a name?

(Whale's Back is up Cottonwood Creek somewhere left of 4x4) Apr 13, 2006
This route route got a new anchor in Nov 2006 courtesy of Climbing Magazine's ARI program. Dec 12, 2006
Dpurf
Superior
Dpurf   Superior
Whale's back is on Technicolor wall and it is a good one. May 3, 2007
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I climbed this thinking it was "double trouble." Definitely worth doing. Nov 5, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Opening moves were harder than they seemed on first inspection. Very sustained until you reach the handjams up high. Harder than Double Trouble. May 25, 2008
The plaque at the base says "The Last Day" also its a pile of rubble getting to the start of the climb, i.e. watch out for cutting boulders loose on those below. Mar 18, 2012
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
A couple of .3's will protect the initial tips lie back, which seemed pretty hard for the 5.11 rating in the Bloom guidebook. 11+ seems more accurate and the climbing remains very sustained until you get to the hands near the very top. Mar 28, 2016
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
Fa: Steve Hong Apr 12, 2016