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Lion Zion

5.10+, Sport, 185 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 36 votes
FA: Wolfe/DeVore, 1996
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall

Description

Wow, this one's a doozey!
Start out on Gumby or Zebra Direct for the first 55 feet and pass the anchor at the top of Zebra Direct. Keep going up and right past some spaced out bolts on little nubs and edges. A bolted anchor comes just in time at about the same height as the second pitch of Zebra Zion. Descend in two raps with a 60m rope.

Location

Just right of Zebra Zion dihedral

Protection

lots of draws (couple long) maybe 18....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lion Zion with Zebra Direct start...<br>
180' pitch!
[Hide Photo] Lion Zion with Zebra Direct start... 180' pitch!
almost to the anchor...
[Hide Photo] almost to the anchor...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] i would like to get on this one. looks good. Mar 11, 2006
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Nice to see the stars! Thanks! First ascent Wolfe/Devore.

It's also a great variation to Zebra Zion if you don't want to carry big gear to the top. An easy traverse to the pillar on the top of the second pitch of ZZ

Cheers, Erik Nov 5, 2008
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This route is lots of fun with constant edging and no real hard crux. Keep your weight on your feet and crimp forever.

With a 70m rope you can lower to the Zebra Direct anchors from the top. There are 8 or 9 bolts on the extension.

If linking from a lower climb put a sling on the ZD anchor and the 2nd bolt (a sling on the 1st bolt of the extension might help too).

If linking with Zebra Direct either skip the 3rd bolt or use a long sling for minimal drag. Jun 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] Does anybody know about the new bolt line that continues above Lion? One person while I was there told me it's around .10d, that's all I know. Aug 5, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
[Hide Comment] I have seen this rapped with a single 80m rope, but it was just a little short to be able to TR it. Mar 14, 2017
another Chad
5.10d
[Hide Comment] When I climbed this years ago it was a total vision quest. The struggle was to keep myself from yelling TAKE. The only thing that kept me going was knowing that my belayer probably wouldn't be able to hear me anyway. I'm sure the moves are easy but damn it sure feels hard with all that air, rope drag and chalkless holds.

Chad Mar 30, 2018
[Hide Comment] Is it a good idea to do this in two pitches? Apr 10, 2018
another Chad
5.10d
[Hide Comment] Sam, either way works fine. If you do it in one pitch, use a lot of runners before the Zebra Seam anchor to mitigate drag.

Chad Apr 10, 2018