5.7,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 620
votes
FA: Dick Williams, Art Gran, 1965
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with
Three Doves,
Arrow, and
Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.
The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.
Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.
P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6 and a bit PG, 80'.
P2: Climb up more or less right above the first pitch, to a ledge. Continue up easy rock aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a
bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.
Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (stretches a 60m rope - watch the ends). Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.
Standard Rack. Small passive and active gear is useful on the second pitch.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The first rap goes right over Annie Oh!, and the second rap goes right over Three Doves - be careful about throwing a rope. It sucks to get hit by a rope as you pull either crux. The anchor over at Arrow is an alternative and that one doesn't interfere with climbers as much.
You can get down on a 50m rope just fine - you have to swing left at the bottom to get on easier rock but it's no big deal.
The area gets a lot of weekend traffic - when it's crowded I prefer to rap over by Hans' Puss since that's all air. Definitely need two ropes for that. Mar 1, 2006
Spfld, Ma
Dolores, CO
Great route, I only wish the first pitch was as good as the second. It's not bad, just mediocre compared to P2. It's also worth noting that there is some runout climbing on P1, but not too horrible. May 10, 2007
Golden, CO
Brooklyn NY
san diego, CA
The flake isn't hard, just intimidating. I was able to get a bomber nut in it though, which makes it less heady considering your prior cam is below the start of that flake and there's only a pin once you're on it. Sep 29, 2013
Brooklyn, New York
Note about rappelling: With several trees and deep flakes, it's very easy to get your rope stuck- lower carefully. Also the first person down should swing left of the giant flake, and aim towards a big tree with rap anchors. It's hard to see until you're almost there.
Warning about fixed pro: There was a fixed nut at the crux, that I tried to clean just for fun. I spent a long time getting it loose, but it was getting dark so I had to leave it. It ended up in a much less secure position than I originally found it, so use caution before trusting it! Jun 9, 2015
Holtsville, NY
Des Moines, IA (WTF)
Hope Valley
Baltimore, MD
Salt Lake
Good climb, though. May 22, 2017
High Falls NY
Petaluma California
Before the Crux entry pulling into the arch, step left, reach up and slot a 6 RP Sep 9, 2024
Philadelphia, PA
Solebury, PA