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Routes in El Diablo Spire

El Diablo TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
R U Positive U Can't TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Speak in English TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waffer, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This short route is located around the corner from El Diablo and can be climbed to reach the anchors of that climb. The easiest route is to start in a crumbly corner and then traverse left to the crack. A little bit harder but more fun is the direct start which pulls straight up on the undermined base of the cliff at around 5.8.

Protection

A single bolt is located 20ft off the ground, at the point where one traverses left. Trad gear can be used for the rest of the route. If you climb the direct start, the bolt is your first piece of protection.

There is no fixed anchor for this climb, but one can be set up with a few wires or cams or by tying off on a large boulder at the summit. At least 10 feet of webbing will be needed to utilize the boulder. The bolt anchors for El Diablo are 5 ft beyond and below the boulder.

Photos

Nate Myers  
 
I enjoyed this route. It makes a nifty short trad lead for beginners like myself, easy at the grade, good stances to fiddle with gear, and a deep crack down the middle that readily took various types of placements. Really easy climbing on the route proper, crux is probably a balancy move after clipping the first bolt and then moving left. Feb 9, 2009