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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 76 total, 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This face route is left of Wedunett, and starts up a bulge using an incipient vertical seam. Moving through this is the crux. One bolt protects this section with two other bolts leading through some easier terrain. May be a bit runout for Big Rock. Belay/rap on one of a couple of bolted belays. From there one can continue up one of four second pitches.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

recommend for a confident leader. the route has large runouts. the climbing is simple, but there is a lot of smearing as it is a typical slab climb. thus, be careful with your foot placements. also, a 60m rope will reach the ground using either anchors May 30, 2014
gordon broomhall
oceanside
gordon broomhall   oceanside
I agree with kennoyce, boogaloo direct was put up before the term 'sport climbing' was invented . if you can get a no-hands rest and drill a bolt on lead, like the first ascensionist did , it aint sport . IMHO in Phil and jordans defense, Nowadays, everything that is bolted is referred to as sport . I have this argument with youngsters all the time. trad refers to the ethics in which the protection was placed, not the choice of gear . Trad=ground up . Sport=top down . I believe an example could be found where are a nut or fixed piece was placed on rapel to protect a severely overhanging 5.13 climb. we would call that a sport climb. english hanging gardens is the only sport climb I know of at big rock. Jul 28, 2011
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.9
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.9
Looks like Phil and Jordan K don't know the definition of trad and sport. This is a trad route even though it is bolted. Jul 17, 2011
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
As you approach the anchor you'll be run out about 30ft from you're last bolt. The second bolt is about 50 feet up so you shouldn't deck but it could be a nasty fall/slide (hence the R rating). If you want to manage the risk you can traverse over and borrow a both from Wedunett about halfway between the anchor and the second bolt or if you brought some pro you can slot a nut in the crack that's down and left of the anchor. May 10, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The original line climbs through the dish to the right and goes at 5.8, moving back to the left above the dish to rejoin the bolt line. Direct is a more aesthetic line with a very nice crux to the left of the dish. If you use the anchor up to the left (the start of Let it Bleed) a 60m will not reach the "ground" for rappel. But with rope stretch, makes it to the lower part of the 3rd/4th class slab. Apr 30, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
Three bolts. Somewhat runout, but on easy climbing sections. Can cheat over and clip bolts on whodunnit or the climb left of it. Mar 10, 2007
Phil
San Diego, CA
5.9
Phil   San Diego, CA
5.9
Agreed. This is a sport route. Oct 16, 2006
Jordan K
Ohio
Jordan K   Ohio
this is a bolted sport climb, not trad Oct 8, 2006