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Face Down In The Muck

5.9, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 57 votes
FA: Steve Edwards, Bob Banks, Scott Buchanan, 1997
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Playground > Little Lebowski Urban…

Description

Climb the center of the north face past huecos on suspect rock. Lower or walk off to the left.
youtube.com/watch?v=pn-kxUE…

Location

The middle of 3 routes on the north face of LLUA's Rock.

Protection

4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Almost an all encompassing picture of the route.
[Hide Photo] Almost an all encompassing picture of the route.
Face down in the muck
[Hide Photo] Face down in the muck
Clipping the second bold on Face Down in The Muck
[Hide Photo] Clipping the second bold on Face Down in The Muck

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Paden
Goleta CA
[Hide Comment] As with the three routes on this side of the crag, the bolts are loose. The rock is very fragile. This is one of the better routes at the crag. Fun moves. Soft rating, more like 5.8 Sep 17, 2010
Matt N
CA
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] SOFT rock on this side. Hand/foot hold fell off yesterday (3/13/11). In the first beta photo seen from above, it is diagnally down & left ~1' of the climbers left foot that broke off.
Belayers beware and leaders too. Mar 14, 2011
Richard Shore
 
[Hide Comment] I was climbing nearby Logjammin' this week and noticed a rather large (and fresh) scar where a ~2'x2' block detached from this route approximately 2/3rds of the way up. I don't know if the difficulty has changed as I didn't climb it, but it goes to show that the rock is very soft on this route; more so than the lines to either side of it. Jul 8, 2011
David Lee
5.8
[Hide Comment] +1 on soft rock. The climber pulled off a Jansport backpack sized rock and it hit me on my head and leg whilst belaying (2/25/12). It came from near the top and a little ways to the left of the route. Thankfully I was wearing a helmet... some helpful people on the other side provided some bandage/wrap material for my leg. Fun moves with bomber hole holds coming out of the cave at the start. 5.8, PG 13 for belayer. Feb 27, 2012
Bob Banks
[Hide Comment] Strikes and gutters David. Mar 1, 2012
Tucker Eurman
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This climb was easy, but scary. Lots of thin, loose sandstone meant for an uneasy climb, and thankful to get to the top. Jul 20, 2013
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Too bad, if the rock was better this would be classic. Won't be climbing this one again. Apr 28, 2015
Stephen D
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this twice in the past month and haven't noticed any holds breaking off or close to breaking off. Maybe it has cleaned up with climbing? All bolts/anchors seem solid and in great condition.

I love this climb. Overhanging start and fairly vertical afterwards but huge holds the entire way. I'd say there's only one 5.9 move. It's pretty obvious which one.

Would definitely recommend. Plus, it's in the shade for most of the day. Apr 5, 2016
Michael Boyd
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] First two bolts are spinning. Avoided this one which is a shame since it looks fun. Sep 1, 2025
Michael M
California
[Hide Comment] The hangers spin on the bolts, but I wasn’t able to get any of the actual lead bolts to spin or wiggle in the hole. The main big holds on the route appear stable except for maybe one hollow sounding jug. Seems like pretty typical rock quality for the area. Fun climb Dec 23, 2025