Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Steve Edwards, Bob Banks, Scott Buchanan, 1997
Page Views: 2,147 total · 14/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the center of the north face past huecos on suspect rock. Lower or walk off to the left.


The middle of 3 routes on the north face of LLUA's Rock.


4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
As with the three routes on this side of the crag, the bolts are loose. The rock is very fragile. This is one of the better routes at the crag. Fun moves. Soft rating, more like 5.8 Sep 17, 2010
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
SOFT rock on this side. Hand/foot hold fell off yesterday (3/13/11). In the first beta photo seen from above, it is diagnally down & left ~1' of the climbers left foot that broke off.
Belayers beware and leaders too. Mar 14, 2011
I was climbing nearby Logjammin' this week and noticed a rather large (and fresh) scar where a ~2'x2' block detached from this route approximately 2/3rds of the way up. I don't know if the difficulty has changed as I didn't climb it, but it goes to show that the rock is very soft on this route; more so than the lines to either side of it. Jul 8, 2011
David Lee
David Lee  
+1 on soft rock. The climber pulled off a Jansport backpack sized rock and it hit me on my head and leg whilst belaying (2/25/12). It came from near the top and a little ways to the left of the route. Thankfully I was wearing a helmet... some helpful people on the other side provided some bandage/wrap material for my leg. Fun moves with bomber hole holds coming out of the cave at the start. 5.8, PG 13 for belayer. Feb 27, 2012
Strikes and gutters David. Mar 1, 2012
Tucker Eurman
Tucker Eurman  
This climb was easy, but scary. Lots of thin, loose sandstone meant for an uneasy climb, and thankful to get to the top. Jul 20, 2013
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
Too bad, if the rock was better this would be classic. Won't be climbing this one again. Apr 28, 2015
Stephen D  
Climbed this twice in the past month and haven't noticed any holds breaking off or close to breaking off. Maybe it has cleaned up with climbing? All bolts/anchors seem solid and in great condition.

I love this climb. Overhanging start and fairly vertical afterwards but huge holds the entire way. I'd say there's only one 5.9 move. It's pretty obvious which one.

Would definitely recommend. Plus, it's in the shade for most of the day. Apr 5, 2016