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Totally Jacked

5.12a/b, Sport,  Avg: 2.6 from 33 votes
FA: Deidre Burton
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow- Hwy’s… > Jacks Canyon > Cracker Jack Cliffs

Description

Great climbing through pumpy, overhung rock. Watch the right handed gaston sidepull after the second bolt (crux)! Great lead, and as with all Jacks climbs, well protected.

Protection

6 SS glue-ins, glue-in anchor with Mussy Hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Almost through the crux of Totally Jacked for the RP on my second try. Photo by David Arthur Sampson.
[Hide Photo] Almost through the crux of Totally Jacked for the RP on my second try. Photo by David Arthur Sampson.
This shot was taken by a climber named Markguycan from Flagstaff. I'm getting the Redpoint after about four attemps. Thanks again Mark.
[Hide Photo] This shot was taken by a climber named Markguycan from Flagstaff. I'm getting the Redpoint after about four attemps. Thanks again Mark.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] Foiled lead after two bolts. Thankfully a few great guys (Eric from Tucson & JC from Albuquerque) came to my rescue. We took it by siege! JC you're my hero!!

Tough climb. Reachy pockets & no gaston needed best I can tell. The crux of the route seems to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. After which the angle eases a bit and the climbing isn't quite so pumpy.

Makes a girl like me hope she can link her TR knowledge into an actual lead. Oct 13, 2008
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really fun pulling on pretty sinker pockets. This is definitely easier if you're tall. I would say that 12b is an overestimation of the difficulty. Felt like mostly eleven pulling into V3 crux up into easier eleven territory. Probably more like 11d? Whatever the grade it is a fun climb! Apr 24, 2012
NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) replaced all pro bolts and the anchor with stainless steel glue-ins on 2/3/23. This was made possible by generous donations from climbers like you, and with collaboration from the ASCA and the Access Fund. The NAZCC hopes to continue anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region, but we need your help! Follow us and donate at nazcc.org Feb 6, 2024