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Routes in Watergate Rock

Dirty Tricks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fifteen Minute Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
H.R. Hardman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Am Not A Crook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Malicious Deception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midday Lightning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pardon Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Political Asylum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
T-N-T S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
T. Gordon Liddy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tricky Dick S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsightly Blemishes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Collar Crime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White House Plumbers TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Allen Steck, Steve Roper & John Thackray, December 1988
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Begin near the left margin of the face, just left of White Collar Crime, at a hand crack which thins and dies out after ten feet. Continue up the lumpy face past two bolt to an anchor at the top.

Short and enthralling and one star out of five.

Protection [Suggest Change]

2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8"); hangers only at the top

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Good route, crack protects with high gear and transition onto the face. Actual crux is probably just before the 2nd bolt but not significantly run out at that point. Clean rock, fun & can be set up for the TR if you're not feeling it. 1.5 stars Nov 29, 2014
Bob Gaines  
 
Begins with a short hand crack, then has 2 bolts on the slab. Apr 15, 2015
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This route is listed in the 1989 Joshua Tree Supplement (Vogel/Bartlett), the 1992 Joshua Tree Guidebook (Vogel) and both editions (1992 and 2002) of the Rock Climbs of Central Joshua Tree guidebook (Bartlett) as having one bolt.

Obviously a second bolt has been added, not unlike W.A.C. in Echo Cove, which needs to be removed - Murf, you out there? Apr 17, 2015
Bob Gaines  
 
There are a couple of mistakes in the Vogel 1992 book on Watergate Rock. The big one is that the route immediately left of Pardon Me, route 1826 (listed as Political Rehabilitation 5.8) is depicted in the photodiagram as having one bolt and it actually has none! Apr 17, 2015

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