Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Don Wilson and Garry Hemming, August 1953
Page Views: 1,514 total · 10/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is a steep route with face climbing on large holds, plus some chimneying. A short 4th class second pitch takes you to the top. Approach the base of the climb from the left, using either the Friction Route or some scrambling on the slabs below the summit block.


Include some medium to large pieces


Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Can be done in one full pitch (60m rope) if you scramble up to the platform below the chimney to start. You can build an anchor with some small pieces and a red C4 if you wish.

The crux is short, and the climbing is relatively easy after, but calling this 5.1 is several orders of magnitude past a sandbag. The 5.7 assigned in the Vogel guide seems about right. Jun 25, 2008
Jace Mullen
Oceanside, Ca
Jace Mullen   Oceanside, Ca
I don't believe the 5.1 that this was assigned. I agree with Vogel's 5.7 Aug 29, 2011
The 5.1 rating is a holdover from the original Willts guide.

There was a whole different attitude about the difficulty of chimney moves then, (the chimney at the start of Angels Fright was rated 5.0).

Compounding that, nobody ever did this route. Aug 29, 2011
Huh? 5.7? I don't think so, super easy all the way, no chimney moves required, jugs all the way. Feb 27, 2014