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Fingertip Traverse
5.4,
Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 178
votes
FA: Jim Smith, Bob Brinton, Arthur Johnson, and William Rice, September 19, 1936
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (g) W Face
> W Face - Right Side
Description
From Lunch Rock, walk right until the rock starts to curve sharply around to your right. Start the climb by going up a third class gully to a tree below an overhang. Climb the tree and exit left around the overhang, and then continue up easy ground to the top of a shrubby area and belay. An obvious right-facing lieback (5.3) goes up to a broken area and an optional belay. Step around left to the obvious fingertrip traverse which gives the route its name. Continue up and left along this crack to easier ground. Broken 4th class climbing takes you up to Lunch Ledge. The easiest way to the top from here is to move up over some three foot steps. Continue up and right along an obvious gully to the shoulder of the rock.
[Hide Photo] Photo of Tahquitz Rock, with the Fingertip Traverse route drawn on top. The photo is one I took with a 300 mm lens from the highway near Pine Cove.
[Hide Photo] This fixed piton and the dihedral to the right is Fingergrip (5.8). Instead, go left after the 5.3 layback pitch (P3) to get to the fingertip traverse.
[Hide Photo] Climbing topo of Fingertip Traverse at Tahquitz. The most recent version of this topo can always be found at https://bitbucket.org/ben-crowell/tahquitz .
[Hide Photo] Catherine exiting Lunch Ledge after coming up the Fingertip Traverse!
[Hide Photo] Slab finish after lunch rock, captured from Vampire
[Hide Photo] None of this tree nonsense is necessary. You can easily plug a number 2 in near the top of the crack "roof" then its perfect hands there as well and an easy left leg mantl-y-doober and yer off to t…
[Hide Photo] Just after the 5.3 lieback... which in my opinion is not exactly casual 5.3... kinda polished for the feet.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the fingertip traverse on lead from the cruxy tree mid-pitch. Wouldn't trust my life to the one remaining fixed pin on this pitch (was able to be pushed in some).
[Hide Photo] The actual fingertip traverse section, the money pitch. The slab to the left, not fully show, is slick, featureless and drops off quickly.
[Hide Photo] Russell usually free solo's this route. He was my helpful guide and followed.
[Hide Comment] Easier than Fingertrip. But nowhere near as classic. I suppose if you want a multi-pitch experience with no difficulty at all, this route is ok. But there are better routes.
Aug 14, 2007
[Hide Comment] I could disagree more with cisco. Mathematically, it's impossible. As a beginner's climb, I can think of few better routes, with the possible exception of, say, the East Face of the Third Flatiron. From the step across out of the tree on the first pitch, the exposed lieback on pitch 2, the even more exposed fingertip traverse on pitch 3, it's just all too good. Do it and you'll see.
Jan 22, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would think that many would want to rope up for the "third class gully". It seem more like fourth class to me. If you have a beginner in tow, I wouldn't ask him or her to solo that gully.
We finished the traverse pitch by continuing up and left to a large tree located above and right of lunch ledge. From here we continued up Angel's Fright and finished with the slab at the top. A total of four pitches.
Aug 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] While most of the climbing here is easy, I would not rate Fingertip Traverse a perfect beginners climb. (See The Trough for perfect beginners climb).
If you have a super noobie, I think they might find the exposure of the fingertip traverse combined with insecure feet and thin fingers quite spicy. Not terribly difficult, per se, but maybe not a confidence builder, especially with swing potential in the event of a fall.
Don't let the 5.3 rating fool you into thinking this is an easy walk up. Climbing the lieback requires some skill in technique for a move or two that might pose problems for some super noobs.
For a rating, I would give this climb a 5.5 based on the lieback and the traverse. Definately harder than anything on the Trough. Plus, you still have to top out coming off of Lunch Ledge, which offers runout 5.4 slab, delicate 5.6 tips/lieback, or I think there is (?) 5.0 slab up there.
[Hide Comment] Combined with the first pitch of "Fingertrip" this is one of my all-time favorite routes. A great beginner climb and a great climb for a mellow cruiser day.
The first time I climbed it I had too much rope drag at the start of the slab on the last pitch. I built a belay off the little tree (yikes) then belayed up my girlfriend. When she got to the tree and saw that the climbed ended just up the slab, she let the expletives fly right at me. But, she must've had fun since she's now my wife.
Jul 17, 2011
[Hide Comment] Did this route on 8.11.11 w/ a local climber, Russell Romero. This was my first multi-pitch trad lead. It was definitely fun! On the 2nd pitch, climbing up on the tree to the rock was pretty interesting!
Took my first lead trad fall on the 3rd pitch where there's a lie back section. BD #2 is what I fell on! It was definitely a great section.
On the actual traverse, since I am not used to being that exposed and high up, I had to really get out off my head to do the traverse. Thankfully Russell was very patient w/ me and I did it clean! Placed 3 pro's during the traverse. WHEW!
The descent was more spicier than the actual climb. Russell took me to a different longer route and still nerve wracking. Guess I will have to keep going back up there to get use to it :)
Overall, it was definitely a fun climb!
Aug 12, 2011
[Hide Comment] We did this route today. My parnter couldn't get my yellow master cam out from a spot in the middle of the traverse. If you get it, congrats on the booty and it's a pretty new cam with no falls so you can trust it.
Oct 24, 2011
[Hide Comment] Love this route. Did it again on 7.10.12 w/ a buddy that has never been to Tahquitz. Finished the last pitch with the fingertip lieback section. Fist time me leading that section. Love it!!! Super fun day!
[Hide Comment] I have to agree with Justin Tomlinson on this one. It's a great route, but it's certainly NOT 5.3, and probably not a good climb for super noobs. I brought two friends on their first outdoor climbing trip up this thing yesterday and I made the tough call to rap before the traverse. I scouted it and downclimbed it and it felt every bit of 5.5 to me. You have positive fingertip holds and marginal foot holds at the crux. Also, lots of exposure here. The lieback on pitch 2 also has a few difficult moves near the top, definitely not 5.3. So I highly recommend this to people breaking into the 5.5 grade and even novices comfortable with exposure, but not your average beginner.
May 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] The Tahquitz decimal system (later to be adopted as the YDS)was originally based on a list of climbs that established the basis for the grading system by Chuck Wilts in multiple editions of his guidebook.
[Hide Comment] There's no reason to argue about the grade on this route (or other easy Tahquitz routes), but not because it's actually a "modern" 5.3 (whatever that is)...
This was one of my first leads, and I've done this route a number of times with a variety of brand new seconds on the other end of the rope and the lieback, while short and easily well-protected, is a mandatory lieback, very smooth on the feet, and includes a couple of moves that would earn a rating of 5.6 or .7 if it was FA'd somewhere else today. It's not The Slab, which is rated 5.8, and felt like 5.10 to me, but maybe Tahquitz is a place with people who historically were really good at liebacking. Ha!
The slab finish would probably be called 5.6 at Big Rock (for comparison) even without the massive rope drag you'll probably have if you placed any gear at all above lunch ledge.
The actual fingertip traverse is probably 5.3.
Just rambling, but my point is that a new leader who feels like having a throw at multipitch should totally not hesitate to do this climb. It will teach you routefinding skills, and while mostly very easy, has short sections of well-protected challenges in the still-easy range to keep it interesting.
May 4, 2014
[Hide Comment] That "third class gully" is definitely fourth class, but not hard. Can be done in Chacos. The lieback is the first part of the climb that actually gets your attention. Do not climb too far up the right leaning crack and miss the traverse (I had to down climb some 10 feet because of this).
Super fun route that is an easy-to-do introduction to increased exposure. If you are still cutting your teeth, this one will take you for a ride.
Edit: Also, yeah, that ant tree sucks.
Jun 22, 2014
[Hide Comment] Definitely trend right from the belay after the traverse. The "layback flake" is the best way to finish, adds just a little technical climbing to a fun route. Also there is NO REASON to use the tree to start the first pitch of climbing after the gully.
Sep 6, 2015
[Hide Comment] I did this this past weekend. The hardest part was the angels fright finish slab.
I got to lead the fingertip traverse pitch and it was AMAZING. One of the most memorable pitches I've done at Tahquitz so far. Despite the exposure it was hard to remember to put lots of pro in for the follower.
Also got to lead the pitch where I had to climb the tree. I thought this was hilarious and good fun. I girth hitched the tree to protect the move where I flopped onto the rock.
Used my standard rack of a set of nuts and .3-3 cams.
Aug 7, 2017
[Hide Comment] Did this back in 2011....didn't post anything 'till now. Nice climb, but thought the 5.4 rating still too "old school" (getting to, and around, the bush/tree on the traverse seemed the crux with not-the-greatest-protection for either leader or follower); plus after you "finish" the climb on "Lunch Ledge" you need to top out on at least a 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R pitch of climbing.
[Hide Comment] One of the old fixed pins at the start of the traverse broke off recently, so I assume the other one is also getting ready to go and should not be thought of as real pro. I disagree with Robert Hall about pro on the traverse and on the final slab section. The traverse protects just great with cams, and in any case a fall would be pretty inconsequential because there is nothing below to hit. It would just be a pain to get back on route, because you'd probably have to prusik back up. On the final slab, you only have to climb about 10-15 vertical feet to get to the bolt, and if you did slip, it would be a low fall factor, solid pro below, and nothing much to hit down below except maybe the tree. Once you clip the bolt, you only have another 10 feet or so before you can get a cam in. I'm a wimp on slab myself, but no way is this PG-13 slab.
May 21, 2018
[Hide Comment] There's been some confusion about the FA date for this climb. The reliable primary source is Mugelnoos No. 68, Oct. 3, 1940, which says there was an initial attempt on Aug. 23, 1936, and then a successful ascent on Sep. 19.
May 8, 2022
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 07/29/23. Very fun climb! One thing to note is that Ant Tree is no joke. If you are swapping leads, whoever leads the first pitch will spend time belaying at Ant Tree. Within 30 seconds of being there, I was covered in ants that were biting me. Perhaps it isn't like that every day, but at least on some days, it is legitimately a buzzkill.
Jul 31, 2023
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PG, Utah
Los Angeles, CA
Costa Mesa, CA
We finished the traverse pitch by continuing up and left to a large tree located above and right of lunch ledge. From here we continued up Angel's Fright and finished with the slab at the top. A total of four pitches. Aug 10, 2009
Flagstaff, AZ
Monrovia, CA
If you have a super noobie, I think they might find the exposure of the fingertip traverse combined with insecure feet and thin fingers quite spicy. Not terribly difficult, per se, but maybe not a confidence builder, especially with swing potential in the event of a fall.
Don't let the 5.3 rating fool you into thinking this is an easy walk up. Climbing the lieback requires some skill in technique for a move or two that might pose problems for some super noobs.
For a rating, I would give this climb a 5.5 based on the lieback and the traverse. Definately harder than anything on the Trough. Plus, you still have to top out coming off of Lunch Ledge, which offers runout 5.4 slab, delicate 5.6 tips/lieback, or I think there is (?) 5.0 slab up there.
Anyway, an okay climb. Jul 3, 2011
Somewhere out West
The first time I climbed it I had too much rope drag at the start of the slab on the last pitch. I built a belay off the little tree (yikes) then belayed up my girlfriend. When she got to the tree and saw that the climbed ended just up the slab, she let the expletives fly right at me. But, she must've had fun since she's now my wife. Jul 17, 2011
Encinitas, CA
Took my first lead trad fall on the 3rd pitch where there's a lie back section. BD #2 is what I fell on! It was definitely a great section.
On the actual traverse, since I am not used to being that exposed and high up, I had to really get out off my head to do the traverse. Thankfully Russell was very patient w/ me and I did it clean! Placed 3 pro's during the traverse. WHEW!
The descent was more spicier than the actual climb. Russell took me to a different longer route and still nerve wracking. Guess I will have to keep going back up there to get use to it :)
Overall, it was definitely a fun climb! Aug 12, 2011
La Crescenta, CA
Encinitas, CA
vimeo.com/45602227 Jul 12, 2012
Idyllwild, CA
5.0 The Trough
5.1 Fingertip Traverse
5.3 Northeast Farce
5.4 Angels Fright
5.5 Ski Tracks
5.6 Sahara Terror
5.7 Fingertrip
5.8 Mechanic's Route (Booksellers Route)
Later additions were
5.9 Open Book
5.10 Blank
5.10+ Blankety-Blank
Just explain to the beginners what a "fingertip traverse" is and that you aren't supposed to try to walk across it.
Tried that as a NOOB my first time at Tahquitz about 45 years ago.
dont! May 26, 2013
the couch
This was one of my first leads, and I've done this route a number of times with a variety of brand new seconds on the other end of the rope and the lieback, while short and easily well-protected, is a mandatory lieback, very smooth on the feet, and includes a couple of moves that would earn a rating of 5.6 or .7 if it was FA'd somewhere else today. It's not The Slab, which is rated 5.8, and felt like 5.10 to me, but maybe Tahquitz is a place with people who historically were really good at liebacking. Ha!
The slab finish would probably be called 5.6 at Big Rock (for comparison) even without the massive rope drag you'll probably have if you placed any gear at all above lunch ledge.
The actual fingertip traverse is probably 5.3.
Just rambling, but my point is that a new leader who feels like having a throw at multipitch should totally not hesitate to do this climb. It will teach you routefinding skills, and while mostly very easy, has short sections of well-protected challenges in the still-easy range to keep it interesting. May 4, 2014
Super fun route that is an easy-to-do introduction to increased exposure. If you are still cutting your teeth, this one will take you for a ride.
Edit: Also, yeah, that ant tree sucks. Jun 22, 2014
Whidbey Island, WA
San Diego, CA
I got to lead the fingertip traverse pitch and it was AMAZING. One of the most memorable pitches I've done at Tahquitz so far. Despite the exposure it was hard to remember to put lots of pro in for the follower.
Also got to lead the pitch where I had to climb the tree. I thought this was hilarious and good fun. I girth hitched the tree to protect the move where I flopped onto the rock.
Used my standard rack of a set of nuts and .3-3 cams. Aug 7, 2017
North Conway, NH
Interesting this once was rated 5.1 ! Mar 2, 2018
Fullerton
Fullerton
North Conway, NH
A 1/4" that was there till someone replaced it with the present boat cleat size one sometime after 2000
The pitch was much more exciting in Vibram clad shoes. Oct 13, 2022
Fullerton
Fullerton