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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)

Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blankety Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fright Night T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Frost and Harry Daley, June 1959, FFA: Bob Kamps and Tom Higgins, 1963
Page Views: 2,170 total, 15/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This three pitch face climb is more characteristic of Middle Cathedral Rock than it is of the rest of Tahquitz. It starts at an inobvious place, about 100 feet to the right of Switchbacks. Pitch 1 (5.9+) has several tricky sequences, ending at a two bolt belay. The crux of the climb is near the start of pitch 2, with steep friction and small edges. Pitch 3 (5.10B) has a difficult mantle and some thin face moves. Easy climbing from here leads to Lunch Ledge.

Protection

standard rack and bolts

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Went up and led it anyway despite junk bolt on P2 and P3. P3 mantle is really cool. Tried to exit left to the anchors on P2 of Fred using the final bolt of Twinkle Toes but (found out later it's 11d) I couldn't figure the move out so I traversed off right instead under clinging in a roof to fingertrip. Sep 4, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Second pitch crux bolt is still junk. 3rd pitch bolt isn't so great either so I bailed right after clipping. Funny that the badly needed crux bolts on this route haven't been replaced but all the others have. Aug 7, 2014
Kye
Joshua Tree, CA
Kye   Joshua Tree, CA
Does anyone know if that bolt on the second pitch has been replaced?? Aug 10, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
Superb Kamps route. Seeing the old 5.9+ rating (1st pitch) makes me all nostalgic. If I remember right , we used to clip a fixed pin in the P-1 overlap. Jan 26, 2010
Ben H  
I remember doing this a couple years back. Couldn't remember the route beta, and led off to the left on the horizontal overlaps at p3. It takes gear and works out as an alternative. Thought it was a bit harder than the regular mantle move, but still very fun. Sep 20, 2009
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I agree that the second bolt on p2 should be replaced. The last gear was a micronut 10 feet below it. That manky bolt is the only thing between the crux and the anchors--or you and eternity, depending on how you look at it. P2 is definitely not safe for someone who could possibly fall here. Jul 20, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
the bolt at the top of pitch 2, which is rather vital to prevent a ride on life-flight should you fall, could definitely use replacement. May 13, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Fabulous face climbing that's all the more amazing when you consider the year it was first done. This stands as a real testament to the skill and vision of Bob Kamps.

So named because it was "blanker" than The Blank, a climb freed a few years earlier by Frost and Kamps. Mar 3, 2006