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Crude Control

5.12a, Sport,  Avg: 1.5 from 56 votes
FA: Steagall et al
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 04-Second Pullo… > Black Corridor > Lower Level > Lower Level - Left
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Really kind of a bomb because of its contrived nature, not because of the rock. Beginning right of Vagabonds (but left of the boulders that separate the corridor) this route starts up a short steep section involving a move from a digit hold to a shelf above. Can be easily cheated by just reaching right for a ramp and climbing via that. Two bolts protect the crux, with 5 more to the anchors.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

throwing the only difficult move of the climb--from the overhanging face to a big jug around the right side.  Crude Control in the Black Corridor at Red Rocks
[Hide Photo] throwing the only difficult move of the climb--from the overhanging face to a big jug around the right side. Crude Control in the Black Corridor at Red Rocks
Bouldery start to Crude Control. Easily cheated by going out right...
[Hide Photo] Bouldery start to Crude Control. Easily cheated by going out right...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is a gimme 5.12. More like a boulder problem at the bottom followed by a bunch of 5.8/9 climbing.

MM May 17, 2006
Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Agreed with Matt.. It's a V3/4 into a 5.9 face climb. Aug 12, 2007
EFS
[Hide Comment] my first 12, and onsight. i think i dyno'd the first move to a sloper on a small ledge??? (this is back in 1994) i was having a great day after almost a week of an ingrown toenail giving me grief that killed any climbing i had to do small footwork on. the hotsprings near bishop fixed that....... everything felt easy and i had no clue i was on the right route because the first moves felt simple and the rest of the climb easy and uneventful....... Jul 25, 2012
Alan Rader
Indianapolis, IN
  5.11d R
[Hide Comment] Great Boulder problem and moves off the deck. I think it is soft and give it a 11d. I didn't like the run out from 2nd to 3rd, holy cow. Like 30ft or something. Yes easy climbing but one slip and a really hard deck. Mar 21, 2018
Colin Quinn
Concord, NH
[Hide Comment] As much as I would like to claim that I onsighted my first 5.12, I don't think I can on this route. Fun opening boulder, but only clocks in around v3 in my book. Not 5.12. Also, the run out from second to third bolt is like maybe 5.4... Dec 6, 2018