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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown (mid-60s) |
| Page Views: | 1,589 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
This route follows a striking feature up the left side of the Black Wall. Despite being an eye-catcher from the road, the rock quality is merely okay and the climbing is not that interesting.
What is very interesting is the protection on this route. First of all, the gear on the traversing first pitch is scarse and hard to place. The second pitch provides an exhibit of many of the different types of harware-store-variety gear (bolts, nails, you name it). Obviously, all of it is suspicious. Fortunately, the climbing on the second pitch is rather easy and the gear becomes a curiosity rather than an objective hazard. The top anchor above pitch 2 is difficult to build.
From the top of the route, make an exposed 3rd class traverse left until reaching a gully(some parties may want to belay this as a third pitch). Descend the gully to a large rappel tree. I believe that a 60m rope is required to reach the ground. Be sure to top-rope Half Ascent (5.5) which is directly beneath the tree.
In summary, this is a real adventure route--the kind that you're glad you did and glad you'll never have to do again.
What is very interesting is the protection on this route. First of all, the gear on the traversing first pitch is scarse and hard to place. The second pitch provides an exhibit of many of the different types of harware-store-variety gear (bolts, nails, you name it). Obviously, all of it is suspicious. Fortunately, the climbing on the second pitch is rather easy and the gear becomes a curiosity rather than an objective hazard. The top anchor above pitch 2 is difficult to build.
From the top of the route, make an exposed 3rd class traverse left until reaching a gully(some parties may want to belay this as a third pitch). Descend the gully to a large rappel tree. I believe that a 60m rope is required to reach the ground. Be sure to top-rope Half Ascent (5.5) which is directly beneath the tree.
In summary, this is a real adventure route--the kind that you're glad you did and glad you'll never have to do again.
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