5.10c/d,
TR, 55 ft (17 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
FA: Martin, Powers, Mrazek (1986-87)
California
> Central Coast
> Hwy 33/Ojai
> Foothill Crag ("The F…
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Teetering follows a line of subtle features on the face between Moon Doggies and From the Ashes.
To locate the start, look for a hangerless bolt 15 feet off the ground and above the horizontal break (look carefully, it's hard to see). From this bolt climb straight up over a bulge to a second hangerless bolt (5.10a). Head up and left, following the lowest-angle part of the face (5.10c/d). The moves above the second bolt involve delicate friction and are quite beautiful.
Protection
This route is only a toprope. Even if the 2 protection bolts had hangers, this would be an R/X route.
For the toprope anchor, there are 2 options: (1) tie off several medium-sized sumac bushes or (2) use the fixed anchor on Moon Doggies and place a #1 TCU in a horizontal crack as a directional. When using option 2, be sure to place your directional carefully as failure of the cam and the ensuing swing could be painful.