Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 3.4 from 702
FA: Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner, 1941
> The Gunks
> The Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
This is probably the best single pitch of 5.5 at the Trapps. The climbing so steep, you can't believe you are on a 5.5! The start is to the left of Laurel
and to the right of Nosedive
, at a crack system with the stump of a tall skinny tree about 15' up, below a huge hanging corner that you'll soon be walking out.
P1: Start in the obvious crack system leading to the large right-facing dihedral that starts 25' off the ground. Clip a fixed pin at the roof, and continue up the fun dihedral. At the tiered roof above, traverse left around the nose to a small ledge. (Optional belay here at pins).
One can also climb directly up through the corner rather than traversing left onto the face. It probably ups the rating a half-grade - maybe - but takes great pro, has tremendous fingerlocks, and feels awesome.
Continue up the crack and face to the top of the cliff. A real gem...
Descent: Walking down by the Uberfall Descent
is usually the best option; walk north, trending close to the cliff edge, until you find yourself atop of Ken's crack.
rap with two ropes from a tree to the left, but consider that the carriage road is at its busiest point here, with dogs and babies and cyclists and tourists hanging out -right- where your ropes will land, blindly, when you toss them.
A single 70m does get you to the ground, and there are reports of some 60m ropes getting there with rope stretch and/or downclimbing -- but the last 40' of the rappel are free-hanging, making errors very difficult to correct.