Strictly From Nowhere
5.7,
Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 546
votes
FA: Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
Description
The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at
bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
Protection
Standard Rack.
Location
The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of
The Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
Link-ups
Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several
link-up opportunities that add even more value:
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of
Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of
The Ceiling, if the crowds allow.
![Something spooky about the way the light doesn't quite reach the ground where my partner is. Wish my ropes weren't dangling to ruin the shot but I had pre-rigged the rap (we were losing daylight really quickly).]()
[Hide Photo] Something spooky about the way the light doesn't quite reach the ground where my partner is. Wish my ropes weren't dangling to ruin the shot but I had pre-rigged the rap (we were losing daylight re…
![exiting to the chains]()
[Hide Photo] exiting to the chains
![Just above the crux move on Strictly taken from Ribs]()
[Hide Photo] Just above the crux move on Strictly taken from Ribs
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If you go any higher on Strictly's (i.e., to the GT Ledge), you will have passed the crux ceiling on Shockley's.
Perhaps the confusion comes from the fact that the initial long pitch on Strictly's can be broken up into two pitches, and in the guidebook it is described as two pitches if you start in the Oscar's Variation corner.
Hope this helps. The link-up of Strictly's into Shockley's is IMHO one of the very best moderate routes in the Gunks. Nov 2, 2016
New York, NY
Astoria, NY
New York, NY
Gunks
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
Las Vegas
Just did the first pitch but was a really enjoyable climb. I was a bit worried by the gunks app description but found it to be a reasonably chill climb, with rad moves on hero holds to finish. The rap has a bit of a gulp moment going over the lip.. so airy! Sep 28, 2020
Asbury Park, NJ
High Falls NY
nyc