Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953
Page Views: 50,683 total · 318/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.

The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.

P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.

P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.

Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).

Descent: Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.


Standard Rack.


Paul Crowder  
The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else. Mar 7, 2006
The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.

Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist. Mar 7, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof. Mar 15, 2006
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!

All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy. Jul 11, 2009
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff. Dec 12, 2011
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos. Sep 4, 2012
Tom D
New York
Tom D   New York
Save one or two number 1"-ish pieces for the second roof on the third pitch to prevent runout. I only had small gear left. Managed to squeeze a 0.4 by a pin. Pulling the roof and the first pitch crux felt 5.7ish May 27, 2014
Cedric BG
New York, NY
Cedric BG   New York, NY
I did the money pitch 3 in two pitches, mostly because it was my partner's second day outside and wanted to be able to communicate with him when he pulled the famous Shockley's roof, which he did like a champ! I think the Dick Williams guidebook recommends belaying about 10-15 feet afterwards in a comfortable left-facing corner. I placed a ton of pro in case my second needed to pull on gear over the roof (it eats pro!).

I also agree with gblauer, the last roof felt a little trickier; fewer jugs than the shockley's roof. I am 5'7" and didn't think anything was too reachy, just get those feet up! and definitely didn't think it was harder than gunks 5.6, as long as you're OK pulling roofs. Jun 19, 2014
First and second pitch are nothing special. The 3rd pitch is super fun. If you want a 4 star climb, link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch. The 4 stars here is for the 3rd pitch alone. Sep 23, 2014
link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch

Just don't do it on a busy day since you will really tick off people coming up Strictley's and Shockley's. Besides it isn't all that good. Oscar's corner is just so-so and the second pitch is a long boring traverse over to Shockley's roof. Sep 24, 2014
Losbill, are you serious? Oscar's into Strictly's is a great great pitch!

Obviously you shouldn't cut someone off who is already leading the routes. That would be jerky. But barring that, you are within your rights to lead Oscar's into Strictly's into Shockley's-- one of the best moderate climbs anywhere imho.

If your party doesn't have anyone who will be likely to struggle at the roof and you have a 70 meter rope, you can take it all the way from the Strictly's chains through the Shockley's crux pitch and to the top of the cliff in one long pitch. I've actually done it with a 60 meter rope, but it just barely made it. Depending on your particular rope and what your leader does to set an anchor, a 60 might come up just a tad short. Sep 24, 2014
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
Roof is super fun, and super well protected not sure if there's an elegant way up it, but it certainly is no more difficult than a single 5.7/8 move at a softer area and right in line for other 5.6 routes at the Gunks. Definitely follow the MP pitch breakdown and not the Gray Dick. Jun 4, 2017
We rappelled down in one go with two 70m ropes, it was juu-ust enough Jul 4, 2017
Adam Mattessich
New York
Adam Mattessich   New York
A Gunks classic! Although except for the crux roof it’s a pretty unexceptional climb. And the crowds to get on it and at P3 especially on summer weekends are brutal. Like most Gunks ratings this is a serious sandbag. If you’re a confident 5.8-.9 trad leader it will be a blast but less confident leaders on high exposure will struggle and Judy add to the lines. Jun 23, 2018
Adam Mattessich
New York, NY
Adam Mattessich   New York, NY
Super fun roof climb with moderate exposure. Typical Gunks 5.6 which is to say more like 7-8 at other areas. Great pro. If you want to photo your 2nd on the crux belay just above the roof in the corner instead of running it out to the top. Jul 26, 2018