Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953
Page Views: 57,317 total · 328/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006 with improvements by lucander
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

History

William Shockley managed the research group at Bell Labs, including John Bardeen and Walter Brattain, that invented the solid-state transistor. Bardeen, Brattain and Shockley were jointly awarded the 1956 Nobel Prize in Physics for "their researches on semiconductors and their discovery of the transistor effect".

Shockley later described his outspoken advocacy of eugenics, the effort to manipulate the human genetic stock by excluding those judged as inferior and unfit, as the most important work of his career.

Description

This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.

The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.

P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.

P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.

Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you'll hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).

Descent: walk left about 200' to the bolted rappel down Ribs.  Three single raps with a 60 will get you down.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos