Avg: 3.5 from 468 votes
Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's
|Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X|
|Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953|
|Page Views:||45,141 total, 316/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionThis route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.
The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.
P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.
P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.
Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).
Descent: Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.