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Fragments of Floyd

5.11d, Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Lee Clark & Lyle Hurd 3rd
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon SP > Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes

Description

Climbs the 'blank' wall left of Prestidigitator.

Pitch 1 45ft 5.10c
Climb the overhangs immediately under the chain belay shared with Prestidigitator, starting on the right. 3 bolts

Pitch 2 85ft 5.11d
Climb the wall heading left from the belay (crux reach - a bit of a boulder problem start! The rest of the pitch is 11a) and then straight up to belay on a ledge just beneath a crack. 5 bolts

Pitch 3 60ft 5.8
From the belay step up and left into the crack and follow it to the bolt belay shared with 1000 Points of light - big ledge. 1"-2.5" Gear

Protection

Quickdraws and 1'-2.5" gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob WardenSpaceLizard
las Vegans, the cosmic void
[Hide Comment] I climbed Prestidigator, which shares the start of Fragments of Floyd. The 1st bolt is missing. there are two empty holes...can anyone comment on the empty holes? Dec 16, 2015
Lee Clark
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Fragments of Floyd climbs past three bolts directly under the shared belay chain on Prestidigitator above - Prestidigitator starts around a bulge on the right and then traverses left and up. Fragments goes direct/straight up a little further left. They do not share any common pitches, just that first belay.

Fragments was power drilled (Bosch 36V Lithium SDS+) (with Park & CATS permission/authorization) with 6x1/2" bolts very carefully placed to create a safe and fun lead.

I'd conducted research with Hilti directly on establishing a minimum standard for bolts in the park and it's specific variation of Navaho sandstone.

A real shame if someone's stripping bolts. It costs significant time and money to establish climbs, besides spoiling other climbers access to great routes. Aug 25, 2016