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Routes in Sand Dunes

Clairvoyance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fragments of Floyd S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gratitude S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jimmy Durante S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kibosch Buttress T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leopard Skin T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leopard's Tail T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Little Miss Demeanor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mack's Rush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Stepping Out T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stranger Than Friction S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thousand Pints of Lite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twist and Shout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's New Pussycat? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Will's Rush T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lee Clark & Lyle Hurd 3rd
Page Views: 1,047 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lee Clark on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climbs the 'blank' wall left of Prestidigitator.

Pitch 1 45ft 5.10c
Climb the overhangs immediately under the chain belay shared with Prestidigitator, starting on the right. 3 bolts

Pitch 2 85ft 5.11d
Climb the wall heading left from the belay (crux reach - a bit of a boulder problem start! The rest of the pitch is 11a) and then straight up to belay on a ledge just beneath a crack. 5 bolts

Pitch 3 60ft 5.8
From the belay step up and left into the crack and follow it to the bolt belay shared with 1000 Points of light - big ledge. 1"-2.5" Gear

Protection

Quickdraws and 1'-2.5" gear

Photos

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Lee Clark  
 
Fragments of Floyd climbs past three bolts directly under the shared belay chain on Prestidigitator above - Prestidigitator starts around a bulge on the right and then traverses left and up. Fragments goes direct/straight up a little further left. They do not share any common pitches, just that first belay.

Fragments was power drilled (Bosch 36V Lithium SDS+) (with Park & CATS permission/authorization) with 6x1/2" bolts very carefully placed to create a safe and fun lead.

I'd conducted research with Hilti directly on establishing a minimum standard for bolts in the park and it's specific variation of Navaho sandstone.

A real shame if someone's stripping bolts. It costs significant time and money to establish climbs, besides spoiling other climbers access to great routes. Aug 25, 2016
Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
I climbed Prestidigator, which shares the start of Fragments of Floyd. The 1st bolt is missing. there are two empty holes...can anyone comment on the empty holes? Dec 16, 2015