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Routes in Out-of-Downers Dome

Hogback Growler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unidentified-1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unidentified-2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unidentified-3 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total, 0/month
Shared By: Mark Abbott on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Disclaimer: This rock holds more than the two routes listed in Kerry 2ed, and that the descriptions in Kerry are insufficient for me to identify Teabaggin' or Sawin' the Bean. (The Out of Downers area was being developed just when that guide was coming out.)

This route packs a variety of good climbing into one pitch. Boulder onto the shelf, and face climb using the cracks primarily for protection. At the right-angling roof system, jog left. Climb the flared but well-protected hand crack (crux) until you can escape left to chickenheads. When the chickens peter out, you have about 10 feet of slab to the top.

Location

This route is on the smaller, unnamed dome just behind/north of the right/northeast half of Out-of-Downers Dome. The main landmark at this wall is a large tree growing right in the corner of a right-facing dihedral. This route starts about 10 feet right of that tree, at a head-high shelf from which two finger-sized cracks/seams go up.

Descend by walking off to the northeast.

Protection

Bring a standard rack, extra medium-sized cams -- and a cordelette or webolette. Here's what the cordelette is for: The chickenheads near the end of the climb don't lend themselves to nuts or secure slings, and the crack has petered out by that point. But the lips on the last patch of chickenheads are such that if you have a big enough sling (e.g. a cordelette) to sling the entire patch of chickens, you get a pretty secure sling. Otherwise you're looking at a runout of 20-25 feet.

Apology

There are more routes on this wall than the two listed in Kerry 1997, and I haven't been able to identify Teabaggin' or Sawin' the Bean.

Photos

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