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Broadway
5.8,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 156
votes
FA: J. Reppy, G. Young, F. Carey 1958
Connecticut
> Central Valley
> Ragged Mountain
> Main Cliff
Description
BEWARE OF COPPERHEAD AT TOP OF CLIMB
Near the right end of the face is a huge block forming a roof about 50' up. Broadway goes up the crack to the right edge of the block.
This is one of the best routes on the cliff - continuous 5.7 - 5.8 climbing with good pro if you know how to place it.
The block that marks the roof is the Skull and Bones block - named after the
secret society at nearby Yale University.
Protection
Mostly medium and small wires and cams. This route has seen a number of spectacular leader falls so place pro when you can.
[Hide Photo] Annie working through the last set of moves before getting on top of the Skull and Bones block
[Hide Photo] Annie top roping Broadway
[Hide Photo] No pro? Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.
[Hide Photo] Seconding Broadway (the lower climber). The higher climber is TRing Skull and Bones.
[Hide Photo] The Skull and Bones block - Broadway is the crack on the right side of the block.
[Hide Photo] At the first crux go to the left. The undercling on the left sets you up much better...
Longmont, CO
This particular route has been the scene of many spectacular falls by climbers unfamiliar with traprock. Many years ago, a visiting "5.10 is just a warmup" climber proceeded to charge up this route to a point just below the roof placing only a single micro cam along the way - suddenly he was flying off and missed cratering by just a few feet. Fortunately that one tiny cam turned out to be OK. On his second effort, he managed to find a lot of gear he had overlooked on the first attempt and had something in about every 3 feet through the crux section.
The real problem is that it's so tiring to hang and place the gear that doing this route with a PG rating makes it a lot harder than at a PG-13 or R rating. Feb 17, 2008
Saratoga Springs, NY
Idyllwild, CA
Victor, Id.
Fort Collins, CO
Idyllwild, CA
Avon, CT
Orford, NH
I would say this is not a good lead for the new 5.8 leader since the gear placements, though good, are more spaced and technical on the lower half of the climb, therefore increasing the risk of a ground fall for the inexperienced leader. Oct 28, 2016
North Conway, NH
Nevertheless, Royal is figuring out the OH move in the corner on YMC and I'm about at his level on Broadway, when Fritz walks by, looks up at Royal and says: "mmm..Good Route, poor route finding" (Meaning, I've always supposed, if you wanted to get up the cliff, Broadway was the easier route.) Mar 22, 2017
NH