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Carey Corner
5.8,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 107
votes
FA: Wiessner, 1935
Connecticut
> Central Valley
> Ragged Mountain
> Main Cliff
Description
This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block. Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.
[Hide Comment] This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route.
Nov 11, 2008
[Hide Comment] This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever done. I haven't actually led it clean but the last time I tried was 2 years ago, so Im gonna go back this weekend and try again.
Mar 16, 2009
[Hide Comment] So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard.
Apr 24, 2009
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.
With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it.
May 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.
I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.
Jul 18, 2011
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.
Jun 7, 2012
I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.
I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either.
Jun 7, 2012
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route yesterday. Yeah... it's hard. Really fun. But I cussed and cursed the whole way up haha! The last like... 2 movesmaybe 10 feet from the topwas the hardest part for me. The first half, up to the ledge in the middle, was easy. I don't know if I even want to try it again to get it clean. It was that painful.
Aug 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] I just bailed on a 5.7. That was embarrassing. I wanted to disappear. Sure it was wet, but a 5.7? Yeah - agreed about this being a bit of a sandbagged rating.... or I suck, or both. :)
Feb 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] Its 5.7 to all the locals who TRed it a thousand times before they ever thought of leading it, similar to 5.7s at all the old school crags. the woo, lol.
May 26, 2016
[Hide Comment] I'm not too sure what toproping Dull Goldor into submission has to do with anything(besides spray?) but I've done many easier 5.7s in historically sandbagged areas so I agree with most folks that it deserves at least an 8 at the least. I also kind of agree with bmags that being able to keep its original rating is half the fun but it wouldn't matter much since CT's traprock is hardly more than a one time destination for anyone from out of the area.
Jun 5, 2016
[Hide Comment] From my few forays to CT climbing areas I've noticed that CT climbers like to sandbag outsiders. In my opinion, as an experienced crack climber from the ADK's, this is probably stout 5.8 versus moderate 5.9 - but who cares - it is an awesome pitch with great gear - so get on it!! And you don't need big gear necessarily. Also several brick-sized loose chockstones in the R crack that someone knocked out and almost hit me! Watch out!
Nov 7, 2016
[Hide Comment] This is at least 5.8. Ultra sandbag if rated 5.7. So good!!! Pumpy, sustained, and interesting. One of my favorite pitches in the northeast.
May 23, 2017
[Hide Comment] Difficulty feels in line with Broadway and Vector, easier than YMC. I thought this was 5.6 or so up to the ledge, and then 5.8 from there to the top. The ledge detracts from the route, somewhat, since it breaks up the flow of the climbing, and makes falls on the second half a bit more worrisome.
Aug 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] This climb beat the hell out of me, and didn't top out following, no way it's a 5.7. First time I gave up on a climb supposedly within my skill range in a long time...
Oct 15, 2018
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With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it. May 20, 2009
I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7. Jul 18, 2011
North Kingstown, RI
I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.
I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either. Jun 7, 2012
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