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Routes in Main Slab

Africa Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Boogaloo Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Thrills T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crater Maker (aka Dark Side of the Moon) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dark Angel (aka The Ghost) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drain Pipe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edger Sanction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
English Hanging Gardens T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giant Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kwanku Dai T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Let It Bleed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mad Dogs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mind Bender T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northwest Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pudnurtle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Chow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppy Dog T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raging Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rat Crack Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roof, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabbergasted TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtacular TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toprope Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trough, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation to Boogaloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedunett T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,520 total · 31/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

Located just right of The Trough (5.5), and despite it's proximity to that route, the climbing is vastly different on rough, orange-colored crystalline rock that provides excellent friction.

While it's possible to cut right after the second bolt to belay bolts it's preferable to climb the route in one long pitch and belay at anchors atop the face. An easy descent exists down the left side of the face via slabs and then a trail.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.5
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.5
Stay left for direct root. Long but easy runout for 40 feet past last bolt to 3 bolt anchor. Need 7 quick draws plus runner/cordelette for anchor. Easy for someone used to slab climbing. Sport and or gym climbers may need to get used to smearing and longer distances between bolts than they're used to. Need almost all of 60 m rope Jan 20, 2014
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Way better than the Trough. My 9 year old daugher loves it! Apr 6, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6
Nice comments Bill. African Flake definitely isn't a sport climb. A loooonnnng fall (broken bones & head injury) from near the top by a climber in the late '80s is evidence of that. Great trad. slab climb. Dec 26, 2010
Easy but love it. Jun 1, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.6
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.6
A way better route than the one to the left of it, The Trough. Jun 2, 2008
Jon Leicht
  5.5
Jon Leicht  
  5.5
Best route in the grade area on the rock! May 12, 2008
Gary Schenk
  5.6
Gary Schenk  
  5.6
Quite exciting to get to that first bolt. Mar 5, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great route, fun lead, best easy line to the top of BR, IMO. Apr 30, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This really isn't a sport climb. I think the confusion comes from regarding trad climbs only as those requiring removable gear. But bolts were around long before the term "sport climbing" which generally refers to well-bolted half-pitch routes (i.e. they can be top-roped with a single rope). Although Big Rock has some sport routes (see Let it Bleed and Cheap Thrills) most are closer to traditional slab. Stichter Quits in JTree is all of 150' or so, on 4 bolts. Hardly a sport climb. Africa Flake, although better protected, takes the full 60m passing 6 bolts. A true sport climb generally has a bolt every 6 to 10 feet. Obviously there is some gray area here, but most of these lines on Big Rock are too sparsely bolted to qualify as sport. Apr 30, 2007
Jordan K
Ohio
Jordan K   Ohio
this is a bolted sport climb, not trad Oct 8, 2006