Avg: 3.8 from 232 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, & John Rupley - 1957FFA: John Stannard & Howie Davis - 1967|
|Page Views:||26,159 total · 139/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Directississima (aka Doubleissima or Double E), is a fantastic crack climb on the right side of the High E buttress. It's well protected, very sustained, and long.
Starting at a crack system well right of the arete, climb up to the Directissima ledge and belay (5.8+, some tricky gear); or continue onwards, heading straight up off the middle of the ledge into the meat of the climbing. The crux comes in pulling through a small roof/notch.
Belay at the top of the High E buttress and rap the bolted line just right of the climb.