Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, & John Rupley - 1957FFA: John Stannard & Howie Davis - 1967
Page Views: 21,562 total · 137/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 with updates from mnjsan
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You & This Route

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Directississima (AKA Doubleissima), is a fantastic crack climb on the right side of the High E buttress. It's well protected, very sustained, and long.

Starting at a crack system well right of the arete, climb up to the Directissima ledge and belay (5.8+, some tricky gear); or continue onwards, heading straight up off the middle of the ledge into the meat of the climbing. The crux comes in pulling through a small roof/notch.

Belay at the top of the High E buttress and rap the bolted line just right of the climb.


Standard Rack.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Best done as a single pitch on a 70M rope to the very top of the wall. Gear is a little sporty in places. Great route; one of my favorites at the Gunks!

For a super punchy route, instead of going left under the last roof to the 5.8 finish, go up and right to join Lakatakissima (10b R/X) and finish on that. The really amazing part was belaying IN A TREE at the top of that route. Feb 22, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The route goes right from the climber in the first photo and then up to a good-sized ceiling. It's really pumpy to get gear (mediocre gear) where the climber is, but you really want it, since moving right is vague and 9ish. The roof above is hard due to the pump, then steep and still pumpy 5.8 or so above that. Feb 22, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Incredible route, but PUMPY. Great gear can be had just about everywhere, if you're willing to sacrifice a potentially greater pump. I felt the bulge just off the belay ledge was the crux of the climb. The small roof had very decent holds all through it. The difficulty was that I was pretty pumped by the time I got to it. Jun 6, 2006
Super fantastic route. I don't know if the real crux is just above the ledge, but I can tell you that this is the part that scares me, as the gear is less than perfect and a fall here would be an ankle cracker. It's been a couple of years, but I think a blue alien just off the ledge helps. Caveat Emptor on this section, but it is one of my absolute favorite Gunks 10's. If you're up to it--do it. Apr 24, 2007
Dick Williams writes about this route "small holds on steep rock". The holds are actually pretty decent except for P1. Many times you come upon a bucket, but get no real rest, because of how steep it is.
The first 5.8+ pitch to the belay ledge is a bit tricky with gear, nuts and a ballnut will come helpful.
The technical crux on P2 comes right off the small belay ledge. It is not bad though, certainly not a 5.10b. Contrary to Byron, I placed two bomber nuts right off the ledge which were quite helpful.
The rest of the pitch, including the crux overhang are technically easier, but the pump is really a factor here.
P3 is delightful - steep climbing on good holds with one more mantle overhang and sugar white rock on the top.

Gear: nuts, small to mid-sized cams, #2 or #3 camalot below the overhang on P2. Nov 5, 2007

terrific route. the only knock against it is that the crux is not too far above a ledge. i was able to climb up and down several times, each time placing a higher piece, before comitting to the final crux section. a good level of fitness is helpful with hanging out and placing the gear. the rest of the route felt pretty casual as tthe holds are always good and you are never far from gear.

i would say it is a fairly good route for breaking into the grade if one is careful and good at tactical methods, or has good gear fiddling endurance. Jun 8, 2009
I think Doublissima is a great climb. The crux not being to far off of the ledge really is not a big deal as you can get in 4 or 5 bomber pieces if necessary in the first 15 feet off of the ledge. I would disagree however that this is a good climb for those breaking into the grade. If you are breaking into the grade I don't think that you want continuous sustained climbing where you have to hang in to get gear the whole way. I also think that the traverse off of the crux where you really don't have much gear other than the useless fixed ring for a bit would cause a bit of fright in a new 5.10 leader. A new 5.10 leader would also likely be pretty gassed under the overhang and find that to be quite and undertaking. Once you have a few tens under your belt I think that this is an excellent lead. Jun 8, 2009

is the traverse right the section where you are making a big step from gaston to gaston sort of thing? if so, i got a pretty good green HB offset in to back up the pin, a gold ballnut would probably be really helpful just under the pin (black alien wouldn't quite fit). at this point it was raining on me pretty hard and i kind of just had to get it over with. you are right though, you kind of have to make a 'move' there.

you're probably right, a good one for after you have done a couple 10's here. well worth aspiring for in the meantime and building up to! Jun 8, 2009
bheller   SL UT
The technical crux on P2 comes right off the small belay ledge. It is not bad though, certainly not a 5.10b.

Im curious, what is your frame of reference to suggest this climb doesn't qualify as a 10b? I honestly believe it to be one of the most solid 10b's I have climbed, anywhere. Sep 27, 2010
Jeff McLeod
Jeff McLeod  
Quite a difficult, pumpy climb - the sequence off the 1p ledge is tough, with gear that isn't fantastic and a finger lock depending on a loose stone lodged in a notch. I took a whipper on my onsight attempt at this part, as my hand popped right out of the hold. I give this climb a solid 4 stars; the climbing up the high E buttress is simply spectacular although I have no shame in calling "Doubleissima" a hard 5.10. May 22, 2013
Jeff I agree fantastic climb. Not sure what you were looking at for gear off of the ledge, but it really does not get any more G on a climb than it is right there. You can get in bomber nuts, cams and tricams in multiple places essentially from the ledge until you start to traverse right. People may have some trouble seeing it all or placing it all due the pumpy nature of the climbing there. May 23, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
While technically easy for the grade, this is one of the more sustained 10s I've done in the gunks. Great moves and great gear if you can hold on through the pump. 1 pitch to the top of the buttress is the way to go and makes an epic long pitch. Nov 6, 2014
City Dweller
New York, NY
City Dweller   New York, NY
Such a great climb. Pro is good the whole way. Pumpy to place at the crux. Totally uncharacteristic for Gunks 5.10s. Oct 9, 2015
I found the crux to be very height dependent, being much easier if tall enough to make the big reaches.

That might explain a lot of 'easy for 10b' vs. 'Hard for 10b' differences of opinion. Apr 5, 2016
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
My favorite route in the Gunks. The crux is the level of sustainability; it's in your face the entire way for the grade. It does however provide great gear every five to ten feet, although some of it is tricky. Stellar line up amazing wall.. One of the most amazing tens in the country, in my opinion. Oct 24, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
This has got to be one of the best 5.10s in the country. Oct 24, 2017
I did this route for the first time with Kevin Bein. Kevin told me he was the second person to do it free, and hanging out and placing pitons for protection was one of the hardest things he had ever done. Mar 3, 2018