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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Higgins, D. Molner and R. Coats, 1963
Page Views: 5,524 total, 39/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

At the far right side of the Northwest Recess are 2 parallel cracks that merge 200 feet up. The left is the Wong climb and is a good direct start to the Long climb. Climb the left crack up 150 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. the 2 pitch move over to the right crack, take that up and join the Long Climb. Take the Long Climb to the top. This 2nd pitch is not popular and involes a strenuous sqeeze chimney with some loose chockstones

Protection

pro up to 4 inches

Photos

Nick Thurston
  5.7+
Nick Thurston  
  5.7+
My rating for the first pitch, which is fantastic hand jamming. Jun 1, 2015
Climbed this on Jan 20th - 1st pitch to the Long finish. Fun 5.8 pitch - seemed easier than the 2nd pitch on Coffin Nail for me.

Reading some of these comments on climbing websites reminds makes me laugh.

CLIMBING IS SERIOUS BIZ Jan 21, 2014
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.8
Well Murph, since you are assuming, you know what that means. My comments were related to the fact that the 1st pitch was regarded as the best 5.8 ever (see comments above), not to the fact that I have climbed the route. WPOD was and is rated 5.8 by the first ascensionists. Just suggesting another great 5.8 route and certainly not "crowing" about it. I'm sorry that my comments struck you in the wrong way. Oct 7, 2011
Murf  
ccmski - If you are in Southern California, check out WPOD for a great 5.8 route

I'm assuming you're talking about White Punks on Dope, which is a very different proposition than a Wong/Long combo of any type. Given that WPOD and this are barely related (especially since it's not a 5.8 and hundreds of miles away), I'll assume that you've recently enjoyed doing WPOD and are giving us a sly hint to that fact. Glad you enjoyed it, and feel free to crow about it all you want on the comments for that route. Oct 6, 2011
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.8
If you are in Southern California, check out WPOD for a great 5.8 route Oct 6, 2011
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
Ya man, It was one of my first ones so memory's a bit rosy, but as a single pitch I love this guy. The rest of the climb makes it classic at the grade for sure. Plus it's at Taquitz so it's all historic! BAM!

I just went back and climbed it again, It's still just as good. Sep 30, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.8
Best 5.8? really?... Dec 12, 2009
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
The first pitch is incredible, great jams, couple little buldges, best 5.8 i've been on. 150' rap if you're lazy but you should really finish up the long climb. You can also TR the 5.10 slab to it's left. Dec 9, 2008
The first pitch is really good, and I thought not hard for 5.8. THen finish with Long climb for a great outing. Some bigger pieces are nice to have along on the route, 3 & 3.5 or 4.

The mummy actually protects well with smaller gear. May 28, 2007
The second pitch is well-protected with gear up to 4 inches. Feb 24, 2006