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Angel's Fright
5.6,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 363
votes
FA: Jim Smith and William Rice, September 1936
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (g) W Face
> W Face - Center (Flin…
Description
Approach: Park at the first parking lot as you enter Humber Park. There is a sign for the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail that is very popular with hikers. Take the scenic trail for no more than 10-15 minutes and then turn left onto the Climber's Trail. Climber's trail is well maintained and may have a sign or cairn, if you are lucky, and the entrance is roughly 5 minutes after the creek/pipes. The approach is basically straight up and takes 30-45 minutes until you arrive at lunch rock. You'll understand why everyone talks about how steep the approach is once you get there but at least it's a good trail.
The crux is the first 40' of the climb. Start up a chimney then move into a nice crack system. The second and third pitches follow the crack system up to lunch ledge. From lunch ledge climb the crack to the runout 5.4 friction slab (1 bolt).
Protection
1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, BD Cams: .5 - 2
[Hide Photo] Climber scampering up the slabs at the last pitch. Taken from the Maiden Buttress.
[Hide Photo] My friend and motivator on the last pitch. It was a cold day.
[Hide Photo] Photo with the route of Angel's Fright at Tahquitz Rock drawn on top.
[Hide Photo] Brad climbing below lunch ledge on Angel's Fright.
[Hide Photo] Leader on the pitch 4 slab (I think his name was Don?) Photo taken from the belay of Upper Royal's Arch
[Hide Photo] Looking up at pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Start of the climb at the base of pitch 1. Climb up the chimney to start.
[Hide Photo] Climbing the hand crack inside the squeeze chimney.
CA
The name is a take-off of Angel's Flight westworld.com/~elson/larail…, the "World's shortest railroad". Mar 3, 2006
Colorado Springs, CO
Tucson/DMR
The topo, route description, chalk marks, and old fixed gear are useful guides. But in the end being alert to the rock, looking around, thinking ahead, and developing a picture of the route when your vision affords is better. I earned myself a little downclimb from trying to treat this route like a Joshua Tree chalk railroad.
I'll echo some of the other commentators again: bring plenty of slings, and plan your placements to minimize rope drag. There's nothing like rope drag to turn a 5-nothing topout on smooth slab into a nightmare as having to fight your body weight in rope friction with only your own poor planning to blame :/
All things considered, though, a worthwhile and memorable route! Apr 19, 2009
Idlewild, CA
youtube.com/user/lhs2miler Jul 21, 2011
the couch
You don't need to extend all your gear...As you leave lunch ledge, wander as you see fit, but reserve gear placements for spots where you're directly above the belay. Extend a couple of pieces near the spot where you head out left as mentioned above, then put in one extended piece as you walk out the crack toward the little bush below the slab. If you do this, you won't feel like you're dragging a carcass behind you on the slab. Also, this permits a 60m rope to comfortably get you to a nice belay spot where it'll be an easy walk to the descent for everyone. Aug 26, 2011
Somewhere out West
Oceanside, Ca
the couch
San Diego, CA
Definitely link it unless you and your partner both want in on leading the corner. I enjoyed it more toward the top anyhow. The slab finish was good too and pretty mellow! Jun 14, 2012
Riverside, Ca
All up in yo bidniss.
Cheers Oct 20, 2013
Phoenix, AZ
AZ
On the second pitch, after the steep bit (in the photo Kendal leading...) the route jogs right a bit and ascends several ledges. One of these has a car engine block size chunk of a bit decomposed rock that is completely detached and vibrates. It's right where you want to go.
Trundling this one would likely kill anyone on the route below or standing at the base.
It's marked for now with an X, but the bad section extends for a couple of feet to the left as well.
No Touchee!!!!!
Given that this route is popular for the relatively inexperienced and often generates a conga line, someone local should consider taking a crowbar to it mid week.
FWIW I've done this route several dozen times over the past 45 years and this is the first time I've seen something really hazardous on this route and the first time I've ever suggested cleaning something off any route.
In any case, next winters freeze thaw cycle should remove it. Aug 30, 2015
Fullerton
San Diego, CA
Other than that we felt like P1 and P2 should definitely be linked. Aug 27, 2018
San Diego
Los Angeles, CA
Carlsbad, CA
P1: Chimney is great for seasoned climbers and beginners (5.3). Easy to work through with plentiful hands and feet supplied by the inner crack. Post chimney, the route finding is initially perplexing. It looks like climbing should continue on through the crack system in the middle of the face. However, it seems more practical to veer out right where there is a fixed piton, and then re-enter the crack higher. Belayed at a bush on a ledge after climbing eased.
P2: Work up the obvious crack system (5.2) with plentiful protection (great passive opportunities). Then make it to a small roof that can be climbed by working directly through it, or stepping out onto the face and re-entering slightly higher (5.6). Post roof the climbing eased, this takes you straight to lunch ledge. At lunch ledge a few climbs meet up, so you will most likely have company.
P3: The finish is the same as finger trip, do the boulder move to surmount the wall in front of lunch ledge. Work right (sling a bush, 120cm) then veer left of the larger tree. (If you choose to go through the tree, this will lead you to the finger crack variation). Follow the crack system until you make it to the 5.4 slab. Easier than it looks, with a bolt in the middle. (My beta is to work left until the small bush just below the slab, and then head up). May 2, 2021
Orange Chaicken