Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim & Ann Kominski
Page Views: 842 total · 5/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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The Climb

Begin by climbing the crack on the right margin of the face (My Three Friends) for 10' and then make some balancy moves out left into some huecos to reach the 1st bolt. Runout but positive climbing leads to a horizontal break (gear possible here) and then up to a second bolt above which lies runout climbing on solid brown patina.

Location

This route climbs the right edge of the huecoed face right of Stemski past two widely spaced bolts.

Protection

2 bolts (1/2", 3/8"), pro to 2.5", 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Stemski)

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 R
Good moves on mostly good rock but the runout nature ensures it will be a TR for most.

The climb can be started directly from the ground without any increase in difficulty and a good 1/2" piece can be placed in the horizontal halfway up (as well as a medium cam 5' to the right). Two stars out of five. Feb 21, 2006
Steve Powell
5.9 R
Steve Powell  
5.9 R
I've climbed this route three or four times. the route is more fun if you avoid the starting crack. It is a bit runout, but no harder than 5.9 imo Nov 22, 2007
72HW Holly
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9 R
72HW Holly   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9 R
I agree with 10b4me - no move is harder than 5.9 here, but every one is tons of fun! Nov 16, 2009
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
First bolt is now 1/2" SS with Camo hanger. Jan 7, 2012
saltlick  
 
the opening face moves are both the crux and most enjoyable sequence of the climb - a piece of pro in Three Friends could somewhat mitigate risk of a nasty fall before the first bolt. Feb 18, 2013
Matt Hagny
  5.9 PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.9 PG13
Small cams in the crack to the right make it safe to get to the first bolt. The runout above the first bolt gets so easy that the climbing is only 5.1 just before you place a #2 camalot off the the R in the horizontal. Then a couple easy moves to clip the bolt. Above the 2d (last) bolt, it's your standard J-tree runout. So, is it really an 'R' climb for J-tree? Probably not, but if you blow the 5.1 moves and fall off before placing the #2, you'll deck. In any case, this route is great fun! Dec 9, 2017