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Routes in The Whispering Wall

Charlotte's Web T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Indian Garden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jeepers Leepers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mother Board Breakdown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Three Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stemski T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whispering Wind TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim & Ann Kominski
Page Views: 745 total, 5/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Climb

Begin by climbing the crack on the right margin of the face (My Three Friends) for 10' and then make some balancy moves out left into some huecos to reach the 1st bolt. Runout but positive climbing leads to a horizontal break (gear possible here) and then up to a second bolt above which lies runout climbing on solid brown patina.

Location

This route climbs the right edge of the huecoed face right of Stemski past two widely spaced bolts.

Protection

2 bolts (1/2", 3/8"), pro to 2.5", 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Stemski)

Photos

mhagny
  5.9 PG13
mhagny  
  5.9 PG13
Small cams in the crack to the right make it safe to get to the first bolt. The runout above the first bolt gets so easy that the climbing is only 5.1 just before you place a #2 camalot off the the R in the horizontal. Then a couple easy moves to clip the bolt. Above the 2d (last) bolt, it's your standard J-tree runout. So, is it really an 'R' climb for J-tree? Probably not, but if you blow the 5.1 moves and fall off before placing the #2, you'll deck. In any case, this route is great fun! 3 days ago
saltlick  
 
the opening face moves are both the crux and most enjoyable sequence of the climb - a piece of pro in Three Friends could somewhat mitigate risk of a nasty fall before the first bolt. Feb 18, 2013
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
First bolt is now 1/2" SS with Camo hanger. Jan 7, 2012
72HW Holly
  5.9 R
72HW Holly  
  5.9 R
I agree with 10b4me - no move is harder than 5.9 here, but every one is tons of fun! Nov 16, 2009
Steve Powell
5.9 R
Steve Powell  
5.9 R
I've climbed this route three or four times. the route is more fun if you avoid the starting crack. It is a bit runout, but no harder than 5.9 imo Nov 22, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 R
Good moves on mostly good rock but the runout nature ensures it will be a TR for most.

The climb can be started directly from the ground without any increase in difficulty and a good 1/2" piece can be placed in the horizontal halfway up (as well as a medium cam 5' to the right). Two stars out of five. Feb 21, 2006