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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Rick Sumner (1976)
Page Views: 288 total, 2/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, with what is considered questionable gear for some and good enough for others. You be your own judge on that. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors. The runnout section below the roof is no harder than 5.8 at any time.

Protection

Gear 2.5", with extra hand sized cams...

Photos

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I agree with Caughtinside, I always thought Jail Break was skipping the leftward ledge traverse and going straight up through a short steep section before moving left to Surrelistic. Aug 9, 2016
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b R
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b R
This page has changed names.

I don't think this climb is Jailbreak, this is in the old guides as a variation to the direct.

Jailbreak is a dirty right hand start variation to the regular .7 surrealistic pillar start. You start in the same spot but instead of traversing left early, you go straight up through a 3' or so right facing flake and into crufty dikes. Jul 1, 2014
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Felt significantly harder than the other direct start (the large corner/dihedral). The gear is a bit dicey until you get to the crux roof but the climbing isn't that hard as long as you keep it together. The gear through the crux is good as long as you can hang out to place it. Jul 1, 2014
BrianWS
  5.9 PG13
BrianWS  
  5.9 PG13
Sparse gear until a few feet below the second roof, but on 5.easy terrain. Red and green c3's will give some confidence at the first roof down and right of the main crack. Jan 28, 2013
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.10
This was a very fun pitch. I'd struggle to call it 10d and certainly wouldn't call it R but it was a bit spicy. Very cool climbing none the less. Sep 18, 2011
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a/b PG13
I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof. Sep 6, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10b/c R
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10b/c R
I'll have to go back and lead it again, I can't really remember where exactly I thought the crux was, I felt more runout than anything. I think I was worried about getting to the roof and then plugging in a cam. The climbing wasn't too difficult but I did feel out there compared to most cracks. Kinda like cochise climbing. Jan 22, 2007
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10b/c R
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10b/c R
I still think it's a runout lead. Especially considering today's climbs. Slinging horns is nice but I felt sketchy and it was gonna hurt if I fell. I consider that runout, from the leader's point of view. Without more folks leading this route to gain consensus we are left with those who feel runout and those who don't. I felt runout. Good climb though. Jan 5, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b R
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b R
pulling the roof direct is .10b. Dec 11, 2006
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.10b R
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.10b R
That roof (and variation) is 10b.....10c if you really want to stretch it. It's not really runout either. Plenty of stuff to sling to keep yourself from hitting the deck. It's a bit spicy, but definitely not runout. Jul 17, 2006
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10b/c R
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10b/c R
I thought we were on the other 10 variation, made for fun runout climbing. Very tricky climbing, well worth the effort, protecting the roof was very strenuous. Feb 20, 2006