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Routes in Hydrotube Area

Acne Problem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clearisil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Games Without Frontiers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrotube S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Ramp, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scarface S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shingles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Walt Corvington, Alan Amos - July 1989
Page Views: 5,380 total, 37/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 12, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Hydrotube would be a classic climb anywhere and is one of the most unique climbs you'll find in Oregon.

Pitch 1: (5.8+) Begin up the middle of the obvious tube on well placed bolts. The crux comes midway up this first pitch with a few friction moves and edges and quickly eases off as the angle decreases. Belay at ledge to the left of the tube on beefy anchors.

Pitch 2: Step right from the anchors and climb up a few dicey moves until it eases off considerably. Continue straight up another steep section (15ft) and scramble to the summit.

Walk off down trail to the right or rappel with two ropes.

Protection

Take many draws as the first pitch is long. All anchors are well bolted.

A 60m will barely make it down from the first pitch anchors.
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It works to link in one 190' pitch with 12 bolts total, long slings on many bolts. Cool little summit, bring sneakers for the 3-minute walk off. Felt fair for the grade but it ain't no gym climb, more like old school friction climbing. Sep 27, 2015
George W
  5.8+
George W  
  5.8+
Certainly the best line on the crag! An abundance of bolts is disappointing, but you don't have to clip them all. Rated as such due to it's sustained difficulty, which isn't really all that difficult after all. Long legs make for easy stemming. So unique and so much fun! Sep 14, 2015
iryna
eugene, or
iryna   eugene, or
Does anyone know how many quickdraws to bring for this climb? thanks. Oct 6, 2014
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
I spoke with one of the first acensionists last summer, and he assured me that while bolts have been replaced, they are in the same place that they were on the F.A. The route is safe but a bit spicy, and while runout on the upper easy slab if you can do the lower part it should be safe enough. Dec 29, 2013
StrongArm
Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
StrongArm   Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
Great place to climb! Hydrotube was a lot better than I expected. I didn't know it was retrobolted... Feb 25, 2010
Shapp  
This route was unfortunately retrobolted several years ago, it was perfectly safe when I first lead it in about 1993 (not the FA). Does anyone know who or why more bolts were added? Oct 27, 2009
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
  5.9
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
  5.9
Even without any prior knowledge of this area, this route stands out as a unique climb. I followed Tim Toula's 1995 Rock and Road to this cliff while I was working as a bird bander in the national forest here. At first I couldn't even find the crag. T. Toula's mileage didn't jive with my odometer, and there are many forest roads to lead one astray. When I finally found this wonderful crag, Hydrotube was the first route I attempted. It is simply a beautiful route. I remember it being more difficult than 5.8+ though. Maybe this is because I had no idea of the grade before hand, or that the rock was unfamiliar to me, but when I took another climber here to try this route, he thought that it would be rated 5.10-. Well, he was from Nebraska. I'm curious as to how this route compares to its neighbors. I never learned what they were graded. Mar 20, 2006