PRINT: Rock Climb 12 Gauge Conversion, Southwest Utah

12 Gauge Conversion

5.9+, Sport, TR, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 38 votes
FA: Todd Goss
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Green Valley Gap

Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

This route is located near the east end of the south facing side of the gap, on a nice hunk of rock. There are two other routes on this hunk to the left. When facing the cliff from right to left the routes are: 12 Gauge Conversion(9/TR), Shotgun Baptism(10c), and Puppet Strings(10a).

Protection

This climb has no lead bolts but is easily TRed from fixed anchors on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left (yellow): Puppet Strings, 10a.
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Center (blue with 2 starts): Shotgun Baptism, 10c.
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Right (red): 12 Gauge Conversation, 5.9+

Left (yellow): Puppet Strings, 10a. Center (blue with 2 starts): Shotgun Baptism, 10c. Right (red): 12 Gauge Conversation, 5.9+

12 gauge conversation as seen from the trail

12-gauge conversation as seen from the trail, walking west from the parking lot

Top roping 12 Gauge Conversion.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kip H
Farmington, utah

5.10a

If you climb this directly the start is hard and crimpy. No cheating on boulders behind you on the start. After that it lets up a bit then it has some awesome sidepull flakes to finish on. I liked it. Apr 5, 2011

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah

5.10a

If you start this over in the cave area (by shotgun baptism) it is really cool to pull up through those sculpted holds and then balancy to move back onto the face. A really fun variation. Apr 1, 2015

Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest

5.10a

Someone installed good looking lead bolts for this one. This is no longer a TR-only climb. Nov 20, 2020