PRINT: Rock Climb Girls and Buoys, Red Rocks

Girls and Buoys

5.6, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 55 votes
FA: Kimi Harrison and Leslie Appling, Apr 1992
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Romper Room

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

From Guise and Gals, continue under the boulder and around the corner to find the start of Girls and Buoys. Good climb for a 5.5. Start in the left most of three corners at ground level and climb about 40 feet to a ledge. Step left into the first corner and continue to the anchors. The crux is stepping into the upper corner – the climbing is easy, but the pro is a little thin in spots, especially as you move higher. Fun, thoughtful route. (There is a 5.4 variation that climbs the second corner to the left from the ledge. It can also be reached by starting on Guise and Gals and traversing to the right.)

Protection

Protection: Cams up to #3 Camalot for the bottom, small wires towards the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the anchors on Girls and Buoys, Guise and Gals to the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CalebSimpson

5.6

Felt more like 5.6 as did the route to the left.
I also recommend a #4 and a #.75 for the traverse left.
The left crack protects better than the right (after the traverse), but the right side looked easier. Perhaps that is why it felt more like 5.6. I was able to place a yellow and red (I think) TCU on that side.

Also, be careful moving to the anchors, the wall is VERY slick. I would clip in before moving onto the face the anchors are on. There is also currently (April 2007) a mangled mess of tattered webbing with one rap ring up on the anchors. Apr 4, 2008

Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia

5.5

I find grades difficult at this level, didn't feel any different to Guise & Gals next door in terms of difficulty, but was a little trickier to protect at the top. Nice climb as well, with hummingbirds attracted to the flowers growing in an adjacent crack. The tat at the top had been cleaned up and some decent slings 'n rings left in situ. Oct 4, 2011

Cunning Linguist

Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers. Even with long slings, protecting before the traverse will result in nightmare rope drag. Skipping gear before the traverse allows the rope to run over the face as opposed to around the corner and greatly reduces drag. Slick moves near the top tend to paralyze new leaders. Anchor has been upgraded and is fine. Apr 24, 2012

Szu-Ping Lee
Las Vegas, NV

5.5 PG13

Feels harder than the 5.5 rating.
The first move on to the route is fun but not protected then is fine up to the ledge. After the traverse, both corners (left and right) are not well protected, especially first move for the left corner. Relatively smooth sailing after this move. Sure is a memorable route.

Solid anchors(2) at the top.

Jan 27, 2014

Joanna Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV

Fun lead! I loved the 'choose your own adventure' feature after you traverse left. I went to the left of the column since it looked like it had more protection, but it was a little tricky clipping into the anchor. I think the left sided version may take a little more technique. My partner used some holds on the arete when going up the left side of the column. I totally get tunnel vision on lead so I never even poked around for any holds on the arete. That may lessen the sketchiness. Super fun climb. Aug 23, 2015

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA

Going up the right side, there was a run out and some tenuous moves that didn't feel 5.5 at all. This coming from a J Tree climber accustomed to thin slabs and water chutes. Dec 29, 2016

Harris Kashtan

5.6

Not a bad climb if you are looking for another easy warm up in the area. At the time of this posting, the right corner had a lot of vegetation growing in it but the left corner was clean. Nice anchor at the top. Oct 10, 2023