PRINT: Rock Climb Guise and Gals, Red Rocks

Guise and Gals

5.5, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 80 votes
FA: Kimi Harrison and Leslie Appling, Apr 1992
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Romper Room

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Guise and Gals is the first climb in the Romper Room Area. To get to the start, climb to the ledge that starts near the Lotta Balls area and traverses under the Alcohol Wall. The climb works up a shallow dihedral on the face behind a large boulder. The dihedral is somewhat smooth, but the friction is good and it protects well. At the top of the dihedral, step left, and continue up the corner to the anchors on the wall to the left. Rappel with a single rope.

Gear: Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Who says there's no pro on the bottom of the route?!?! You gotta be creative folks!

Belayer's point of view

Looking down on my belayer

Katherine belaying under the boulder at the start of Guise and Gals.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah

5.4

Not a bad route for learning trad climbers along with many at the Romper Room area! Nov 17, 2006

CalebSimpson

5.6 PG13

Crappy protection at the start, also felt more like 5.6, it requires a crazy high step to get on the rock then awkward stances to start as well. All I could get in at the start was some micro cams (in sideways, I doubt they would have held). The crack at the start was thin and flaring. Apr 4, 2008

Alex Rogers
Sydney, Australia

5.4

Good fun, and I felt it protected very well from about 3-4m upwards. I'm getting back into leading trad after a very long break, and had no problems with this - so would say a good route for the new / returning leader. Oct 4, 2011

Micah K
Denver, Co

I wouldn't recommend this for a beginners lead. The first two pieces of pro I found in the first 15 feet were a small C3 and #3 C4 which were questionable at that. I found the beginning to be smooth and a little awkward, but it does get much easier once you turn the corner. Oct 29, 2013

Idaho Bob
McCall, ID

5.6 PG13

Climbed this in March of 2011. Don't waste your time. May 13, 2015

Michelle Kemmer
Calabasas, CA

5.4

I'm a beginning trad leader and I LOVED this route! That said...I recommend this for experienced beginners only and not total noobs. You've got to be good at placing pro - and a little creativity helps too.

Contrary to some of the other comments, I thought there was good pro on pretty much the whole route including the bottom (red tricam, people-it's a creative placement but it works). There are a couple of places you have to run it out a bit, but the climbing is easy. I thought the feet were totally solid the whole way and there was great stances the whole way for pro placement too. Yes the bottom was a little awkward, but I'm a total whiner when it comes to awkward climbs and I honestly didn't think it was that bad.

Overall, I think this a super fun route for an experienced beginner.

Oh and thanks to whoever bailed and left the #3 cam behind - I've added it to my booty collection. Apr 25, 2016

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR

5.4

The crux of this route is the beginning; it's a little sandy in spots. Otherwise, quite cruiser. Apr 7, 2019

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.6

A nice little route. The start is tricky 5.6. Good pro the entire way after this. It's easy to miss the current bolted anchors on the left face about 60 feet up. This route could easily be extended another 10 feet to a very good ledge where the bolts SHOULD be located. Any takers? May 29, 2020

Paul Stoliker
Canmore, AB

This is the biggest sandbag I have climbed. You can start in two spots about 1m apart. The RHS is harder. The LHS is easy once you figure out how to do the move. From either start it is easy to the ledge. Above the left edge of the ledge there are two corners: the bolt anchor is on the slab between the two corners about 15m up. Both corners are extremely hard for the given grade of 5.5: they are both probably 5.7. Both felt harder than Romper Room. The left corner has pretty good gear. The right corner has poor gear.

We had a great time top roping the face at the start of the route. Do the LHS start then step left onto the small "ramp" about 2.5m above the ground. Then go straight up through the big hueco, then up and left past the small white patch to a good hold just past the edge of the face. Very hard if you don't take the time to work out the moves. I would guess that an on-site climb would feel about hard 5.10 or so. Oct 16, 2022