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Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover)
5.13a, Sport, 90 ft,
Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1989 (tr), John Yablonski, Jim Thornburg, Scott Frye, 1989 (lead)
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Monolith
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
Super classic overhanging face on the North Face. Best rock-quality in Pinnacles?
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Chris Sharma (when he was 13) climbing Ranger Bolts.
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Someone placed a lower off anchor 6 feet below the lip of the overhang, I assume to facilitate lowering off with a 60-meter rope. The problem with the anchor is it was placed just below the route's upper, heartbreaker crux, so stopping at the anchor means nice try, but you didn't finish the route. All of the early ascents of the route climbed to the summit.
An anchor just above the final crux is the way to go, but people would need to be aware that a 70-meter rope is needed to lower off.
Dec 17, 2014
A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade, in my opinion.
-To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.
-To the middle anchors which Jim described in his comment is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.
-To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - If you do it this way Yabo rests in peace.
May 21, 2015
Ian J Walters
Beware the jug cobble at the upper anchors, it's about ready to go as of October 31 2015.
Nov 2, 2015
This would be a way better route if all the criss-crossing lines of bolts that have have been vomit-launched onto the wall over the years were cleaned up. Not only are they extremely unsightly and unsafe, but a few of the actual bolts you'd want to clip for pro are way off route and hard to get to. This makes the route very hard to onsight since you waste a ton of energy climbing up and down and still end up with a bunch of rope drag if you clip the wrong ones or don't use long runners. 12a pitch to the first anchor is one of the best in the park. Just watch out for poison oak on the approach!
Nov 7, 2016
Tr'd this yesterday. Climbing below the first webbing anchor was awesome crimpy balance fun. As talked about below, a hold has broken just a few feet below the anchor, and then I was told it exploded completely a month ago. The move felt nearly impossible to me. Who knows if it will go. Towards the top, I also pulled out 2 of the ancient 1/4" SMC bolts by hand with minimal effort. As of this post, the route desperately needs to be retro bolted with a clear path.
Nov 26, 2017