[Hide Comment] Someone placed a lower off anchor 6 feet below the lip of the overhang, I assume to facilitate lowering off with a 60-meter rope. The problem with the anchor is it was placed just below the route's upper, heartbreaker crux, so stopping at the anchor means nice try, but you didn't finish the route. All of the early ascents of the route climbed to the summit.

An anchor just above the final crux is the way to go, but people would need to be aware that a 70-meter rope is needed to lower off. Dec 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade, in my opinion.

-To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.

-To the middle anchors which Jim described in his comment is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.

-To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - If you do it this way Yabo rests in peace. May 21, 2015

[Hide Comment] Beware the jug cobble at the upper anchors, it's about ready to go as of October 31 2015. Nov 2, 2015

[Hide Comment] This would be a way better route if all the criss-crossing lines of bolts that have have been vomit-launched onto the wall over the years were cleaned up. Not only are they extremely unsightly and unsafe, but a few of the actual bolts you'd want to clip for pro are way off route and hard to get to. This makes the route very hard to onsight since you waste a ton of energy climbing up and down and still end up with a bunch of rope drag if you clip the wrong ones or don't use long runners. 12a pitch to the first anchor is one of the best in the park. Just watch out for poison oak on the approach! Nov 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Tr'd this yesterday. Climbing below the first webbing anchor was awesome crimpy balance fun. As talked about below, a hold has broken just a few feet below the anchor, and then I was told it exploded completely a month ago. The move felt nearly impossible to me. Who knows if it will go. Towards the top, I also pulled out 2 of the ancient 1/4" SMC bolts by hand with minimal effort. As of this post, the route desperately needs to be retro bolted with a clear path. Nov 26, 2017

[Hide Comment] I counted 39 bolts associated to this line on the wall. Half of them are old and sketchy. Please! Someone clean up this mess! I understand the historical reason to respect the bolt ladder but can we do this in another way and make this climb clean as it should be? Feb 6, 2020

[Hide Comment] Was concerned it might be missing bolts based on comments, but it's seen some maintenance (thank you!) and still goes as a bolt ladder.

You do sometimes have to be on manky bolts for a two or three bolts, but there are enough good bolts that it's still safe.

Great multipitch bolt ladder for practicing belay transitions. Get on it!

For gear for the crack I would recommend black through purple Totems or equivalent. Floppy stem cams would be best to allow inverted cam placements. Tricams would work fine also. Mar 26, 2023

[Hide Comment] Was Jimi the first person to aid climb this on top rope?? Dec 4, 2023