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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Penguin Handshake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1989 (tr), John Yablonski, Jim Thornburg, Scott Frye, 1989 (lead)
Page Views: 5,204 total · 34/month
Shared By: jim thornburg on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Super classic overhanging face on the North Face. Best rock-quality in Pinnacles?




Someone placed a lower off anchor 6 feet below the lip of the overhang, I assume to facilitate lowering off with a 60-meter rope. The problem with the anchor is it was placed just below the route's upper, heartbreaker crux, so stopping at the anchor means nice try, but you didn't finish the route. All of the early ascents of the route climbed to the summit.

An anchor just above the final crux is the way to go, but people would need to be aware that a 70-meter rope is needed to lower off. Dec 17, 2014
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade, in my opinion.

-To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.

-To the middle anchors which Jim described in his comment is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.

-To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - If you do it this way Yabo rests in peace. May 21, 2015
Beware the jug cobble at the upper anchors, it's about ready to go as of October 31 2015. Nov 2, 2015
Vlad S
Vlad S  
This would be a way better route if all the criss-crossing lines of bolts that have have been vomit-launched onto the wall over the years were cleaned up. Not only are they extremely unsightly and unsafe, but a few of the actual bolts you'd want to clip for pro are way off route and hard to get to. This makes the route very hard to onsight since you waste a ton of energy climbing up and down and still end up with a bunch of rope drag if you clip the wrong ones or don't use long runners. 12a pitch to the first anchor is one of the best in the park. Just watch out for poison oak on the approach! Nov 7, 2016
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
Tr'd this yesterday. Climbing below the first webbing anchor was awesome crimpy balance fun. As talked about below, a hold has broken just a few feet below the anchor, and then I was told it exploded completely a month ago. The move felt nearly impossible to me. Who knows if it will go. Towards the top, I also pulled out 2 of the ancient 1/4" SMC bolts by hand with minimal effort. As of this post, the route desperately needs to be retro bolted with a clear path. Nov 26, 2017

More About Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover)