Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1989 (tr), John Yablonski, Jim Thornburg, Scott Frye, 1989 (lead)
Page Views: 5,263 total · 34/month
Shared By: jim thornburg on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Super classic overhanging face on the North Face. Best rock-quality in Pinnacles?

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Someone placed a lower off anchor 6 feet below the lip of the overhang, I assume to facilitate lowering off with a 60-meter rope. The problem with the anchor is it was placed just below the route's upper, heartbreaker crux, so stopping at the anchor means nice try, but you didn't finish the route. All of the early ascents of the route climbed to the summit.

An anchor just above the final crux is the way to go, but people would need to be aware that a 70-meter rope is needed to lower off. Dec 17, 2014
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade, in my opinion.

-To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.

-To the middle anchors which Jim described in his comment is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.

-To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - If you do it this way Yabo rests in peace. May 21, 2015
Beware the jug cobble at the upper anchors, it's about ready to go as of October 31 2015. Nov 2, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
This would be a way better route if all the criss-crossing lines of bolts that have have been vomit-launched onto the wall over the years were cleaned up. Not only are they extremely unsightly and unsafe, but a few of the actual bolts you'd want to clip for pro are way off route and hard to get to. This makes the route very hard to onsight since you waste a ton of energy climbing up and down and still end up with a bunch of rope drag if you clip the wrong ones or don't use long runners. 12a pitch to the first anchor is one of the best in the park. Just watch out for poison oak on the approach! Nov 7, 2016
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
Tr'd this yesterday. Climbing below the first webbing anchor was awesome crimpy balance fun. As talked about below, a hold has broken just a few feet below the anchor, and then I was told it exploded completely a month ago. The move felt nearly impossible to me. Who knows if it will go. Towards the top, I also pulled out 2 of the ancient 1/4" SMC bolts by hand with minimal effort. As of this post, the route desperately needs to be retro bolted with a clear path. Nov 26, 2017