Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 687 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Erskine on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

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This boulder lies directly behind the Y-Crack wall and Coyote Tower. A lot of fun problems and eliminates including the classic Friction Addiction problem.




Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
There are three lines I can think of on the boulder. A short V1 on the far left end, a traverse in from the river side to the bluff side and then up the middle of the face, and finally climbing the blunt slopey arete on the river corner - this is the route i have heard called friction addiction. The latter two are definitely harder than V1...maybe V3/4? Anyone? Nov 17, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
The line up the right arete (river side) is the one I've heard as Friction Addiction and is definitely the classic line on the boulder, goes around V3 I think. The traverse route is harder. Dec 6, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
It sounds like the above description of this problem is incorrect. Travis and Ben, would you guys like to submit a more accurate description of the problems on this boulder? If so, I'll integrate these new submissions under the Friction Addiction boulder. Dec 7, 2007
Jonathan Williams
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
Probably V3 up the slopey arete: Friction Addiction. Did this last Sunday; super fun! JW

Start with good feet on the river corner (as you walk up from the parking lot, this is on the front right corner of the boulder) and reach left to a good undercling. Work your way up and left with low smears and a sloping rail for your right hand to the apex of the rail, and mantle over to glory. A classic V3. There is a flat rock underneath the landing, and so two pads may be helpful: one on this rock, and one on the start: where you bounce down to. Not a dangerous landing, just one requiring a bit of dexterity. Oct 15, 2008
Friction Addiction starts on the corner and paddles up the slopey arete. There is also a mantle problem on the riverside as well as a boatload of variations and eliminates all over. One of the better ones starts on the far right river side and traverses into Friction Addiction. Its been so long I would have to go back and look at it to give accurate descriptions of anything. May 15, 2011