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Routes in Meader Wall

Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Reason to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cohesion V0 4
Hawaiian Bill S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Macroputz TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Man In The Black Pajamas, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Micro Putz S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nihilist S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ninja TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Patent Pending S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pork Tornado S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Corey Morris (group cred FA, see below)
Page Views: 3,097 total, 21/month
Shared By: Colin Erskine on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Starts on the far left side of the bluff. Follow first four bolts to some big huecos. The climb is pretty straightforward to here. The next couple of moves between the fourth and fifth bolts are very sequency. Look for a crystal pocket just below the fifth bolt. After clipping the fifth bolt continue along through a cave to the sixth bolt and the anchor. Watch for loose rock.

Protection

Six bolts to the top. Hanging chains for anchors.

Photos

Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Gary Meader is an outstanding individual...a falconer...he's the shit...he has the first assent of the flag route...which I completely believe on Georges Point..but he's had a really tough time with climbing Hawaiian Bill...not even sure and probably didn't do it...he's tried a a lot...and never got it...but nonetheless a outstanding individual whom deserves recognition and respect...I've met him on several occasions and he's never claimed to get it ...this is why it was called the Meader Wall...Thanks for the additonal info guys...maybe I should push the timeline up...I'ts been so long ago JJ...cuz' the first time I climbed with you was at Gov Dodge...so what time frame do you think? I make mistakes... Oct 18, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Gary Meader used to haunt these bluffs looking for any boulderable terrain. I went through his "circuit" with him a number of times, the best being the traverse at the bottom of what has become the Meader Wall. Hawaiian Bill was bolted in 95/96. Seth Dyer nabbed the second ascent, and I did the third right after him. Oct 17, 2015
Meader is the last name of my uncle. He climbed with Dave back in the day. Funny coincidence that he was a climber, I didn't even know until many years after I started climbing myself. He still lives in the area but is more into MTB now. Oct 17, 2015
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
This was the third bolted climb on the bluff at the time...the first was Hawaiian Bill...the second was Brown Reason to Live....the third Patent....prior to this my climbing partner was crazy Dan Shober...it's kinda funny...I met Dave at the UWL climbing wall...that is a separate story...Later Dan and I were climbing at Georges Point...we were both un-attached to the rope and Dave walked up and started to pull up our rope...and we were like WTF....he just laughed and said were climbing at the Meader Wall...which we did...he told us that the webbing that we were using in plain view wasn't necessarily a good thing...he led Hawaiian Bill and Brown reason and set the ropes...and both Dan and I flailed on these routes...circa 1997..Wanna know why this is called the Meader Wall?...not even sure if Travis knows this..... Oct 11, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Nice history Corey! I am dying to try this route. Maybe if I ever make it back up to La Crosse.............. Oct 8, 2015
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Good point, Allen...One cannot on-site with beta...my bad...With 2 good holds broken (I personally broke the pistol grip in the hueco) and the other by the crux by who knows...I personally feel that this route is 11a now and some others and I feel that way...

So the story goes is Dave, Kevin, and I were all cleaning and top-roping this thing for quite a while...up here in a blasted quarry the rock is dirty, soft, and loose...so we climb and clean and look for solid bolt placements...Dave, of course, had the brains cuz' he was teaching me how to bolt a climb...this was back in 1996-1998 and I truly do feel blessed he mentored me...Bolts were placed. Dave told me after the glue was set to grab the first assent once it was cured...which I did 24 hours later...So I did the first lead of this thing but it was a completely joint effort on the part of all three...Dave asked me the grade...at the time I told him 10c...I really think I made a mistake with the initial grading...I had it so wired by the time I did the first lead that I downgraded it...so, before ANY of the holds broke...I should have graded it 5.11a because there is a tough sequence to figure out with a few sucker holds that will get you into a non-reversible position if you don't do the sequence right...I made a mistake...maybe it was pride or that I at that time was climbing really hard routes down at the lake...I don't know but I really screwed up with the initial grade of this this route...that is, coming up to it and doing it on-site...to that, I apologize to the climbing community. Oct 6, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
As opposed to onsighting with beta? :) Aug 14, 2015
Corey Morris
Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
Corey Morris   Landstuhl, Germany
  5.11a
If you are a solid 5.10 to low 5.11 climber...this maybe a difficult route to on-site without beta. Oct 10, 2013
Liz H
 
Liz H  
 
That section where the hold broke is now a bit reachy if you're shorter... which I guess could be good if you want your warm-up to include stretching? Still worth doing, but it doesn't flow so nicely anymore. May 8, 2009
Rossy B.
  5.11a
Rossy B.  
  5.11a
So harder than before! 11a?

I think I like it better though! May 4, 2009
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11a
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.11a
First naked ascent?!

Definitely harder than before. JW May 2, 2009
GregParker
Denver, CO
 
GregParker   Denver, CO
 
First Naked Ascent (FNA): Greg Parker 2009, belay goes to Joe Simon May 1, 2009
GregParker
Denver, CO
 
GregParker   Denver, CO
 
Patent got pended! I went up on 4/28 and the right crimp crux hold is gone. The route is harder, but probably still 10d. Apr 29, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.10d
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.10d
Thanks for putting this up Corey! Did you have the FA then? This was the first lead for a ton of climbers back in the day...I myself bailed off of it 3 times before I actually got to the chains when I was learning to lead. A three day effort bottom to top. So many fond memories... Mar 23, 2009
Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
 
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
 
This route has more history than it should: The local speed climb testpiece, the only Meader Wall route known to see a winter ascent (winter ascents only count if it's below zero degrees F) and the only known naked ascent of the wall.

Speed Record History (set on toprope, start behind the log, finish when the chains are slapped):

Ben Ingman 43 seconds
Colin Treiber 40
Travis Melin 38
B. Ingman 36
T. Melin 33
T. Melin 30.1
T. Melin 24.5

---Post route alteration speed records (set on toprope, start on starting holds, slap the chains)---

Travis "the local" Melin 30.5 sec

Car to Car: UN-ESTABLISHED (this is your chance kids!)

Door to Door: S. Dew, T. Melin (2008) TIME?

First Winter Ascent (FWA): George Forge, B. Ingman, T. Melin (2007)

First Naked Ascent (FNA): Greg Parker (2009)

If you break Melin's speed record, or set a car to car time, please post up. Aug 25, 2008