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Routes in Rockfellow Dome

Abracadaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Zzzzzs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jabberwocky T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Knead Me 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labyrinth, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lumpy Unmentionables T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Sensory Desuetude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Unknown S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (NE Face) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown (S Face) T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: , 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972
Page Views: 2,226 total, 15/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.

Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.7 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.

Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.

Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.

Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.

Protection

A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. #4 camalot is probably the biggest you need.

Photos

Karl Groll
Tucson, AZ
Karl Groll   Tucson, AZ
Climbed this yesterday and thought it was really fun.

I thought P1 was slightly less secure than the chimney pitch of Pissgums, and maybe a little harder too, but still probably in the 5.8 range. The upper part of this pitch is pure fun.

P2 was fantastic - felt long and physical, little bit of everything. There's a beautiful hand crack, but... as it goes with Cochise, it's hard to access so it climbs more like an OW. Nice exposure too, and a cool perspective of Chey / End Pinn.

I'm not sure how far you're supposed to tension over on P3. There's the crack that you take up to the Friendly Flake when climbing Abra, but when tensioning over from Knead Me you reach another crack first. JJ took this, and we both thought it climbed better than the Abra version. Has a wide move to start, then gets into splitter fingers, and finally into a gradually leaning splitter hands crack! Probably only 5.8, but really fun. Eventually meets up with the main crack right below the FF. You can see it pretty well on the approach, from the saddle.

Wish it was longer before linking up with Abra, but still a cool alternative if you're looking for a new, moderate way up Rockfellow.

Accidentally (my bad...) took a single rack with an extra 3 and 4, but it ended up being about perfect. Rack suggestion would be a set of stoppers, singles from .4 to #1, and doubles of #2, 3, 4. Don't need big bros or anything bigger if you've climbed squeezes before.

Lastly, big thanks for the bolt replacements! Feb 6, 2017
TJ Aguilera
Tucson, AZ
 
TJ Aguilera   Tucson, AZ
 
Cool route with a new bolt in place for the A0 tension. The 1st pitch takes some gear and is safe with big bros. 2nd pitch is a bit of a grunt but really fun, if you are into that sorta thing. Oct 8, 2015
jbak  
The first pitch may actually warrant a soft "X". I got no pro at all. It's fairly secure (it's a squeeze) but if you DID fall.......badness. Feb 17, 2006