Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 31.92692, -109.97782
FA: Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972
Page Views: 3,866 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.

Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.8 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.

Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.

Pitch 3-5: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.

Protection Suggest change

A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. can get away with #4 camalot as your biggest. bringing a #6 make things extra comfy on P2, and a #7 removes the R rating from P1.

1x .4 - #1

2x #2-#4

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