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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini
Page Views: 3,800 total, 26/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006 with updates
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This meandering moderate route climbs past four bolts and at least one gear placement. A bolt protects the delicate crux move.

Location

This route is located just right of Smeagol's Surprise and 10 feet left of Dimrill Stair.

Protection

Four (4) bolt protection + gear. Standard rack. Two bolt rap anchor.

Photos

Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
Robert Karl   Pasadena, CA
Led this today onsight as a sport route. Doesn't seem like a trad route to me. Well protected (I'm a novice leader, so my $.02) Sep 10, 2016
ChaseLeoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8
ChaseLeoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8
I disagree with Adal. Bring a #1 to place deep within the flake. Keep in mind the flake is hollow however. The climbing is easier yes, but accidents do happen. Also, the second bolt can be a bit dangerous midclip as its not far off the ground. Ive personally seen a new leader deck after struggling with the clip. The belayer did what he could, dropping and pulling slack, but it only softened the fall. He's fine but beware Aug 24, 2016
Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
  5.8
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
  5.8
I disagree with the Trad rating of this climb. Sure it takes a .75 just fine, but the climbing in that area is so easy, there's really no need. It's bolted well near all the cruxes and the run-out isn't bad (and easier climbing).
It's a sport route. Nov 14, 2015
dholte
South San Francisco, CA
dholte   South San Francisco, CA
oh! definitely bring gear, a bit run out after the second bolt, easy climbing to the third bolt but don't fall! Mar 31, 2013
The FA was done by Joan Bertini.It was named Sam I Am. 4 bolts + gear. Jul 14, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
I agree about the fourth bolt: seems too far right from the natural line and I found myself clipping it from a tenuous stance. Yikes! On TR I climbed the direct line slightly right of the fourth bolt and that felt more like 5.9 to me. An ok route. Not bad, but not great. Mar 28, 2012
ChrisRoyHarman
San Diego
  5.8+
ChrisRoyHarman   San Diego
  5.8+
4th bolt is a long reach for most people, so ensure positive footing before clipping in. A fall could land you on the sharp ledge. Sep 1, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.9
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Actually called Sam I Am. FA Kennedy / Bertini. Jan 15, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Another fair, middle of the road climb in Mission Gorge Jan 9, 2010
Brad W
San Diego
Brad W   San Diego
I think this route is also called "Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair" in the PDF guide by Art Messier. Jul 1, 2009
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
Excellent climb place # 1 in flake after 2nd bolt. This climb is one of the best climbs at the grade in Mission Gorge. To find this climb head up Middle Earth trail past Shadow fax. Continue straight up hill 100 feet. At second canyon start left for 50 feet uphill. Climb is obvious four bolt climb on right wall. Shinny new bolts and rap anchor at top of climb. Feb 7, 2006