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Caradhras

5.10a, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 58 votes
FA: Erik Beck
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth > Middle of Middle Earth

Description

Climb up a thin crack into a pod. Climb out of the pod to the climbers left, and continue up a sloping arete following the crack to the top of the formation.

Protection

Standard rack. Two bolt anchor. TRing this route will generate a lot of rope tension due the distance to the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Patty completing Caradhras
[Hide Photo] Patty completing Caradhras
Just exiting the pod
[Hide Photo] Just exiting the pod
Angelina Kalianda searching for a placement before she commits to crux moves.
[Hide Photo] Angelina Kalianda searching for a placement before she commits to crux moves.
Ngoc Tran leading Caradhras
[Hide Photo] Ngoc Tran leading Caradhras
Caradhras (5.10a)
[Hide Photo] Caradhras (5.10a)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew G
Pittsburgh, PA
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route, the crack above the roof is great. Probably more like 50-60 ft, though the last 20-30 to the chains of Glamdring are more scrambling than climbing. Nov 5, 2018
Kevin Kirk
Oakhurst, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The roof move can be protected with a black totem size easily. Didn’t really use nuts Oct 19, 2020
Tyler Collins
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I set up a TR and the drag wasn't bad. A couple directionals kept things civilized. Lot of core strength required to pop out of the alcove, but the moves are there. Tricky onsight but probably 5.9 once you figure the sequence out. May 22, 2023
No Dak
San Diego
[Hide Comment] What’s the etiquette on downgrading a trad route that you top rope? Jan 1, 2024
John Peterson
San Luis Obispo, CA
[Hide Comment] This route's grade has had community consensus for quite some time now. Downgrading by individuals is part of refining the grade suggested by the first-ascensionist prior to consensus. It's important to note that the YDS is a very imperfect and subjective system so while this route may have felt easier to you, it is likely that it suited your style well and this is not a universal experience for all climbers. Jan 5, 2024